More highlights from Milan and Paris

From A to Z, here's the ACHTUNG S/S 2027 Women's recap

October 12, 2026

Christian Dior

Probably the lightest Dior collection we’ve seen in recent years, Jonathan Anderson still had the summer heatwave in mind when designing his S/S 2027 women’s collection. We see him breaking out of the constraints of such a storied house more and more with his ultra soft iterations of the bar jackets, once designed by Christian Dior straight after World War II, which essentially were the epitome of femininity back then, corset-like waist cinchers. For 2027, the bar jackets are more like transparent over-layers with no boning, made from chiffon and super airy. What Anderson does right is designing commercial products, the balance between loosening the brand’s essence and still keeping the loyal clientele happy, is what keeps us interested in the next Anderson for Dior collection.

Christian Dior S/S 2027

The lightest bar jackets

Diesel

Glenn Martens went out with a bang for his final Diesel show. What became a mass make-out and dry humping session towards the end of the show, the collection itself was actually a good rendition of all of Martens’ blood, sweat and tears poured into Renzo Rosso’s main OTB brand, which he was entrusted with over six years ago. He was able to turn this denim and logoed T-shirt company around, catapulting it into a serious fashion brand with the return of the needed, but long-lost sex-appeal. Plus the material experiments, fabric manipulations and trompe-l’oeil goodness one can only expect from the Belgian, who can now focus all his attention on Maison Margiela.

Diesel S/S 2027

Etro

Houses without a creative lead always tend to bridge the gap from the exit of an old creative director until a new one steps in with the intense magnification of house codes. That’s what happened in June for Etro’s men’s season. So when it was time for the Italian brand to show their women’s collection we were kind of expecting the same thing, however a nice surprise of a not so heavy handed Etro came almost literally flying down the runway. Diaphanous dresses, skirts and overcoats, delicately beaded or bobbin-laced tops, Etro’s S/S 2027 collection reads like a walk through a hayfield on a warm summer’s day, with no remaining Marco De Vincenzo clouds.

Etro S/S 2027

A light affair at Etro

Giorgio Armani

The Giorgio Armani S/S 2027 collection is aching to be taken out for a night on the town. With silky tuxedo dresses, shiny bustiers with shimmering floor-length skirts and a splendid array of party gowns, the celebration of Mr. Armani’s life and legacy continues on. Closing the show with a cool a cappella version of Depeche Mode’s Enjoy the Silence with the models standing and facing the audience was a cool take on new show direction Silvana Armani is experimenting with.

Giorgio Armani S/S 2027

A collection for nights out

La Perla

With lingerie-inspired clothes all over the runways, prime example being last week’s Chanel S/S 2027 collection by Matthieu Blazy, this Italian brand presented their collection zero after a three+ year hiatus. With over seventy years of La Perla stored in their Bologna archive, this brand is stepping out again. Founded by a woman for women, it’s high time for La Perla.

La Perla S/S 2027

La Perla’s lingerie dressing is back

Max Mara

Max Mara’s S/S 2027 collection stood out with its strong military edge. Broad-shouldered coats, cargo pants, utilitarian vests in combo with sheer organza pants, lots of waist-cinching belts, or little details like how halter-neck straps were almost brutally sewn onto an otherwise very feminine wraparound top with a big bow on the side. This has been the brand’s strong suit since its foundation, but whenever Griffiths combines a simple concept like militaria with the Max Mara codes, it boosts desirability.

Max Mara S/S 2027

Max Mara’s military edge

Mugler

For the last act of A Trilogy of Glorified Clichés by Miguel Castro Freitas, or in simpler terms his third show for the brand after taking over a revamped Mugler by Cadwallader, he really took it back to nature. Not in the way you would think, no linen, no wide-legged pants, no beiges. Duh, it’s Mugler. More along the lines of Thierry Mugler’s more-than-memorable Les Insects collection. Hats resembling a single antler, animal prints en masse, scaley-skin-like skin-tight top, and yet again another fish-net look which seems to be a trend this season, started during June’s men’s season by Setchu in Milan, and also seen at Hodakova. The Mugler-isms are all there, in great effect even. For act four we imagine clients hoping to see a little more wearability, as Mugler S/S 2027 felt very couture.

Mugler S/S 2027

Scaley-skin-like top

Ottolinger

Berliners via Switzerland Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient always make for a Paris highlight. Their Ottolinger S/S 2027 collection presented in an abandoned Zara boutique somewhere deep in Paris’ south is a statement in itself, as most brands wouldn’t dare to be associated with fast fashion. These two girls are too cool to care. The collection was essentially an addition to the Otto client’s closet with their design language visible in every piece, but rather toned down this season. Stripped from any layering or unnecessary chi-chi, skin-tight as ever, and a casting mix only Ottolinger can pull off: rappers Offset and Coi Leray, and show closer Heidi Klum. For years we’ve put it in writing, that these two are destined for a big house. We have a feeling it will happen very soon.

Ottolinger S/S 2027

A stripped back Ottolinger

Rick Owens

Rick Owens’ S/S 2027 collection heavily leaned into the ritualistic, or perhaps here, anti-ritualistic, use of pentagrams — Owens’ declared insignia in his design practice — he translated the symbol into elastic yet rigid-looking tulle-rope constructions, especially striking when paired with mille-feuille circular-cut tops made from the same material. What truly stood out however, was a plethora of flowy gowns and dresses in stony-grey non-colors, some ruffled through the center of the body, others kept simple. Yet once again, throughout all his customary showmanship with a water fountain show and metal grates turning into the runway at the back of the Palais de Tokyo, Owens’ individual pieces remain highly desirable, from heavy-duty double duchess floor-length gowns and washed denim skirts with major center-front slits to halter dresses featuring a winged collar and, as always, some of the best outerwear for anyone who appreciates a little edge and fashion code-signaling on the street.

Rick Owens S/S 2027

Great show-looks closing the show

Sacai

For a second we were confused, as Sacai S/S 2027 felt very winter with the super dark-tinted look line-up, heavily layered outfits and furry elements. However in Abe’s witty design manner, furs or cable knits were turned into digital prints for cropped technical raincoats or dresses, sturdy leather was made summer appropriate via large-scale cuts to let air in or general wintery garments like trench coats were decorated with tassels to give them an easier esprit. It’s Abe’s design shrewdness and wit we are happy to see back after taking a season off the women’s schedule.

Sacai S/S 2027

Cable-knit digital prints

Torishéju

In a heavy co-ed season, meaning women’s and men’s are shown simultaneously, with the men’s actually being stronger looking back on the past weeks now, the brand Torishéju stood out. Torishéju Dumi, actually a trained men’s wear designer who won the LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize a year ago, is showing more and more confidence. It surely helps to have a Nike-collab backing the collection, Dumi is carving out her niche in the fashion circuit with a collection showcasing major craftsmanship as seen in the nail-embellished jacket, more than credible garment-cutting abilities and the necessary fun via colorful prints.

Torishéju S/S 2027

Jacket with nail-embellishments

Vivienne Westwood by Andreas Kronthaler

The Austrian duo that is Andreas Kronthaler, creative director of Westwood and stylist Sabina Schreder knows how to make every look exciting in a runway show. One can easily catch oneself mid-show when looks start to become one big blur. Not at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. The plethora of trinkets as in button pins or penis charms, silhouettes that take more than a couple seconds to fully understand, chants or slogans, and cutting through the different layers, figuring out the single pieces coming together for one outfit can keep one’s attention fully there – the late Dame Westwood’s legacy is in good hands. And this collection by her husband Kronthaler was the best proof of that.