Whatever you can do to heighten the excitement for your collection, Miuccia Prada knows the playbook. Her Prada show opened the Milan season for the first time, making her skirt theme the headline of the week there, while she moved her season-closing Paris slot two days earlier, into the middle of a Sunday not heavy on highlights, so as no longer to be upstaged by Louis Vuitton as the last word on the season.

Miu Miu is dear to her heart as a fashion statement, and this collection was generally the opposite of all emerging trends of the season, as Prada’s factories can easily whip up the clothes in just a few days. So, no fringes and no lingerie dressing in sight, but quirky sportswear. Such are the advantages of a completely vertically integrated brand like Prada. Fashion muscle meets industrial power.

The winning formula for this season was lots of athletic wear, chopped-off tops and swimwear elements to provide plenty of sex and sizzle. Of course, expertly juxtaposed with club blazers that all spelled out the Miu Miu logo, like uniforms from an elite university. Not only the front row, but nearly every female guest pulled out their latest Miu Miu purchases to sit in the bleachers.

At the bottom of it?

There is a silent naughtiness in these collections, and nobody throws together a black leather kilt better: ultra-short, of course, paired with an orange pussy-bow blouse opened to the navel and a minimized black leather vest.

The collabs?

Super-cool jeans with lace closures created with Wrangler, the forgotten jeans brand, and sneakers with New Balance. Here, every opportunity to enter new categories is used.

The colors?

Not often mentioned, but Prada is also a master colorist. The bottle-green blazers and orange bursts throughout the collection were eye candy.