As the giant recent casting show for creative directors has seen major success at Chanel, barely-there improvement at Gucci and a clear mismatch at Balenciaga so far, it‘s becoming clear that most designers only have one clear signature they apply to each employer. See Hedi Slimane, who has done it successfully wherever he went, or not so Alessandro Michele after switching from Gucci to Valentino. And here is where the Kering-led Bottega Veneta absolutely stands out. Since the departure of Tomas Maier in 2018, the appointment of every creative director has been spot on for the brand. Daniel Lee, Matthieu Blazy and Louise Trotter have all kept the DNA of a creative and cool craft brand intact. From what it looks like in 2026, the only path to success is continuity and clarity. Louise Trotter has comfortably hit her stride now and came up with a pastorally pleasant and artisanally boundary-pushing collection which telegraphed her self-assurance and the women and men she dresses. No wonder the biggest movie star in the world strode in late from a Trotter backstage visit to his front-row seat to then see his girlfriend close the show. Jacob Elordi, Kendall Jenner and this collection are an item.

Men’s wear foundation?

Trotter is rarely seen in skirts herself and while the other big female designer in Milan emphatically embraces them, Trotter’s foundation for her women’s looks is radical tailoring. Two great ideas – a plunging U-shaped neckline and a far off-center buttoning on coats and jackets.

Quirky factor?

The triangular crochet hats, the multiple scarves tied in every which direction, many different fabrics in one outfit, the fringey cutting on dresses and skirts — Trotter approaches each look like its own collection. It’s not daffy, it’s cool craft.