Milan Men’s F/W 2026 Additional Highlights Part 2

All about longevity

January 21, 2026

Paul Smith

Nearly 80 years and still having fun with his shows. That’s the secret recipe of Sir Paul Smith who loves to use his Milan showroom for salon style shows which he narrates life for comical audience effect. For his F/W 2026 collection, he sent the design teams into his newly finished archive, and they brought back some inside out tailoring from the 90’s that the designer brought back on the runway. His grey wool hats were among the best of the season.

Paul Smith F/W 2026

Inside-out-tailoring

Grey wool hats

Ralph Lauren

Would the 86-year-old designer make the trip across the Atlantic to show a men’s collection in Milan after a 20-year hiatus? We certainly hoped so, but he didn’t. Mr. Lauren’s casual strolls down the catwalk after a show to standing ovation of his family are part of fashion lore as hardly any other designer enjoys his bow as much. But Lauren still owns the “I can style a show better than anyone else” territory. Mixing his formal Purple label with his cool Polo prep was a good idea to begin with and then who else could mix surf, hiking, prep school insignia and functional tailoring like him. Polo really stood out while the Purple man could use a dash of more American haberdashery and less Britishness as this territory is reclaimed by Dunhill.

Ralph Lauren men’s F/W 2026

Cool Polo prep

Ralph Lauren Purple

Santoni

Who can pair innovation and craftsmanship better than Santoni? That was the question on our minds after leaving the brand’s Montenapoleone showroom. Santoni showed a clever new hybrid loafer meets ankle boot and brought some innovation to its Vibram soles by building in a collapsible ice spike. Falling on Berlin’s ice paved streets in the New Year, we wished we had a shoe like that.

Santoni F/W 2026

Collapsible ice-spike

Saul Nash

This young designer got inspired by attending Notting Hill Carnival in the summer, developing a collection around the idea of masquerading. This led to research into vibrant costumes, cultural ceremonies, and expression, with—given the Milan setting—an exploration into Venetian masquerade art as well. Not in a literal sense, though: the idea was to allow the wearer to mask and unmask, easily shifting between formal and leisure. All of this is rooted in Nash’s London background—one of the last truly cool fashion cities, where ethnicities collide and authentic subculture networks still exist, alongside a rich tailoring history. He has been incorporating more classical elements into his athleisure universe for several seasons now, and it shows. Pinstripe overalls with sportswear detailing like detachable sleeves, or suit jackets with built-in hoods, felt genuinely fresh amid Milan’s otherwise classic offerings. It certainly helps to have sportswear giant lululemon in his corner, enabling the young designer to push these ideas further.

Saul Nash F/W 2026 post-show

Pinstripe overall

Suit jacket with hood

Tod’s

The focal point of Tod’s F/W 2026 presentation was the Winter Gommino boot—a style crafted to transcend fashion trends and an emblem of the Italian way of life (Also works well in Berlin as our Tod’s special from ACHTUNG 50 proves). Guests were greeted at the entrance of Via Mozart’s Villa Necchi Campiglio by four artisans assembling the boots, in both leather and suede, from start to finish on a table laid out with an array of the finest hides reaffirming what Tod’s is best at: Made-in-Italy craftsmanship. Paired with the Pashmy project—a leather that represents the House’s extensive material research—the presentation further reinforced Tod’s enduring, hand-in-hand relationship with leather.

Tod’s Winter Gommino boot being assembled

Tod’s F/W 2026 presentation

Valstar

This tiny brand is a jewel of innovation led by Luigi Fila, a third-generation member of the sportswear family. Known for his suede blousons, the brand presented a new beat-up aging leather technique for its bombers and blousons. The showroom reeked pleasantly of baby Vitello.

Valstar F/W 2026

The brand-staple Valstarino jacket got a wool renewal

Read Part 1 of our recap and our other reviews on Milan Men’s F/W 2026 highlights by clicking on the brand: ZEGNA, SETCHU, DOLCE & GABBANA, PRADA & GIORGIO ARMANI.