Right after Mr. Armani’s passing last fall the rumor mill of whom might replace him went into overdrive. Apparently, a certain French designer had already moved to Milan to find a house and other nonsense was spread via social media mostly. Even while the company communicated a very clear succession plan from the moment Armani was buried because management knew, they only had to wait for the first official runway outing of Leo Dell’Orco to silence everyone. After all, he had worked for 40 years alongside Mr. Armani. Before the show new board members like Yoox founder Federico Marchetti came, a CEO from within named Giuseppe Marsocci was appointed and zero changes in overall staff with key members like Anoushka Borghesi who heads global communications and spent more than 15 years at the master’s side or Stefano Tradati the most sought-after media buyer on the planet who doesn’t work with an agency network all stayed put. It was decided that Silvana Armani who has an impressive nonchalant elegance will direct women’s and hence the new Armani Privé Haute Couture in Paris next week. All the pieces were in place in the deciders’ minds. Then yesterday Dell’Orco showed an assured, on point Giorgio Armani men’s collection, which brought in just enough fresh air especially with a wonderful pinkish, bottle green and lapis blue color palette to assure continuity and newness at the same time. It was a great men’s wear moment as the lightness and fluidity of the suits are a house signature and very much in fashion right now. Dressed nicely in a double-breasted corduroy suit and deeply tanned from a recent trip to Antigua, Dell’Orco invited a group of editors to Armani’s home which he shared with him and confessed to have had a deep sleep the night before the show and felt there were only a few tweaks to be made, like bringing in a utilitarian element to the house’s natural elegance. The number of pockets he placed on belts, jackets and even scarves was astonishing, but this added a new chunky masculinity to the canon.
Giorgio Armani men’s F/W 2026
Flashy lapis lazuli blue
Deep bottle green
Light and fluid suiting
Utilitarian elements
Leo Dell’Orco and nephew Gianluca Dell’Orco, men’s design director
The colorist?
There was an all-new way of presenting colors. Not only did Dell’Orco come up with winning combinations like a black coat with a faded green shirt and pink pants but he also played up the ideas by using lots of velvet, crepe and chenille, all fabrics associated for shining differently depending on the light angles.
Fresh coloring methods for Armani
Super shiny velvet
Reflective materials
The surprise?
Keeping things strictly local and Milanese, the company invited the poncho and cardigan savvy brand Alanui to co-create a colorful men’s and women’s cardigan which was responsible for some of the fresh air we mentioned. Plus memo to Leo and team: Please look at the Florence debut show of Soshiotsuki to understand the power of the Armani style seen through fresh eyes and send some young designers to the archives and see what they bring you back.
Giorgio Armani for Alanui
