The season is young but so far the highlights came from a tribute to a passed creator, a reprise of a hit show from a decade ago in new proportions and a dialogue of a designer with a no longer with us for a long time fashion master marking a 75^th anniversary. You can certainly read between the lines and what do all these shows have in common: A dialogue with the archive, bringing out the DNA or roots, paying respect or simply rehashing older ideas – not a lot of new clothes. And off the triumph from their last live men’s show at Pitti in January 2020 where they cemented their reputation for bold silhouette play, Lucie and Luke Meier did it again yesterday with a strong, fresh and powerful fashion show rooted in maxi tailoring and the wise usage of aggressive black leather to give some panache and much needed fashion news. This was a fashion show and nothing else. Being part of Renzo Rosso’s OTB group with its international retail network and manufacturing know-how should only add wings to Sander which has been slowly taking off and is starting to soar. It allows the Meiers to live out their love for embroideries, different fabrics with different touches and cool intarsia. The detachable giant knit collar has somewhat become a design signature of the duo and was featured on many looks to tamper the tough black leather edge.

Black leather?

It’s been coming on slowly but this show officializes the return of black leather tailoring. Either in full leather trousers or on lapels of coats.

The silhouette?

The trousers felt new as they were lean and mean and mostly straight legged to juxtapose boxier coats. One could say this was a coat show. From furry to soft and abstract leopard jacquard.

The personalization of Sander?

Many sweaters and coats featured knitted hand drawings of zodiac signs to underline the Meiers’s idea to let the wearer make the pieces his personal own. Questions remains which Zodiac signs were shown? Their own?

A50 in the house?

Casting director Julia Lange from Frankfurt who has climbed in our list of the 50 most important Germans in fashion from 46 to 31 showed why she is the go to person at the moment. Ethnically diverse and completely fresh faced where even Leon Dame is just one of many. All the models enhanced the clothing wonderfully.