Paris Women’s Highlights S/S 2023 Part 2

Happy centenary dear Akris

It was a night where everything came together for Akris designer Albert Kriemler. The set was spectacular in the courtyard and fountain shared by the Palais de Tokyo and the Musée d’art Moderne de Paris. On top, Kriemler brought along fellow Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone with his rainbow colored sign “We are Poems” which towered in the middle of the space. And while the Paris collections have been going through a few rainy days, the sky was clear and bright, it was even a warm late summer evening which heightened the festive mood of the first big runway show of the St.Gallen based house since the pandemic. Before the biggest crowd Akris ever hosted, Kriemler had the foresight to send out one of his most modern and daring collections he has ever created using archival and new pieces. The key to it all were the Superga sneakers which added a sense of nonchalance to every single of the extremely tailored day wear and occasion dresses for evening.

Tailored daywear

Evening dresses

The new Akris is?

Sexy is not what comes to mind in general but Kriemler brought out a wonderful line up of see through lace dresses and suits which dazzled with their sheer fabric quality. St.Gallen is famous for its embroidery manufacturers which inspired a similarly sexy Prada collection a decade ago, but this time Kriemler choose one of the oldest lace manufactures in Calais to freshen up his looks. Of course, Kriemler knows his customer and he covers up la taille.

See through lace looks

The Akris archive?

The pieces created by Albert in the late 70’s in navy blue with big gold buttons added a new bourgeois twist to the Akris line up which generally avoids opulent statement clothing. Here it felt just right because Kriemler worked hard on adjusting the volumes to today.

Navy blue garments with big gold buttons

The color palette?

Kriemler who manages to marry his art inspirations with his collections like no other designer we know because he is actually an avid collector, museum goer and connoisseur, mirrored the color theme of the Rondinone pieces with his finale of silk georgette dresses and gowns in yellow, purple, red and blue. It was spectacular.

Colorful finale of Akris S/S 2023

Set for Akris S/S 2023 with rainbow sign by Udo Rondinone

Kriemler’s last collection with the pixel art of Reinhard Voigt on his clothes ended up on the cover of FAZ Magazin in September 2022, photographed on model Adrienne Jüliger by Julia von der Heide.