Paris Women’s F/W 2021 Highlights III

Save the best for last

Miu Miu paris fashion week 2021 fall winter

The first fully digital Paris fashion week ended yesterday with a fashion blast courtesy of Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton. Following the action behind our screens, we noticed a few interesting new trends. The big houses absolutely insist on the relevance of the fashion show. They send out the same elaborately conceived invites for their live streams as for their shows. In fact, considering all the food and fruit baskets plus chocolates and flowers or even deck chairs (Burberry) we received, the efforts became bigger. Even while the shows are streamed to audiences directly all over the world – b to c, the opinion of the press, our coverage and attention is very much invited, we are happy to report.

Leonard

While Daniel Del Core gave the debut of the season in Milan, another German stepped into the spotlight of the fashion world. Lette Verein Berlin trained Georg Lux took over as artistic director of Leonard Paris, the French heritage fashion house with mega following in Japan. Run by founder Daniel Tribouillard’s daughter Nathalie Tribouillard, this family owned business is very much the exception on the Paris calendar where the big conglomerates rule or sponsor. Lux has an unabashed vision of female glamour with his floral printed silk dresses and blouses, which embody the Leonard spirit. Evening wear might just be the category to explode post-lockdown.

digital fashion week paris

Signature flower print

Leonard paris fashion week digital F/W 2021

First total look black for the house

Chanel

It’s nice to see that a big house like Chanel has given the new designer Virginie Viard all the time in the world to develop her more feminine vision for the house. While not universally loved by the press, the international editions of Vogue have published the first portrait penned by Hamish Bowles and show a woman who has literally grown into the most important fashion designer position in the world surrounded by her family and friends. Viard is itching to reopen the nightclubs of the world after her last Haute Couture Le Palace collection and now her take over of French boîte Castel in St. Germain. Her après ski inspired collection of maxi coats layered over sheer slips with fur boots was new to the Chanel canon in its sexiness. Our columnist Manuel Almeida Vergara recently weighed in on Viard’s tenure here.

Chanel apres ski look Paris fashion week F/W 2021

Après ski new sexy

chanel paris fashion week fall winter 2021 digital

Back to nightlife

Louis Vuitton

Let’s call him shape shifter. What makes Nicolas Ghesquière’s work at Louis Vuitton immediately recognizable is his innate understanding of silhouette and the necessary tension within. His new split pleat mini dresses, oversize parkas, skinny pants or peplum skirts over knee high boots look like a fashion blizzard. This collection feels young, pulsating with ideas and the fact that soundtrack sounded like a live concert by Daft Punk was a tongue in cheek reference to the end of the French pop culture duo while the show location in the Louvre underscored the brand’s ease to encapsulate history.

Louis Vuitton paris digital fashion week fall winter 2021

Ghesquière’s season shape

louis vuitton paris digital fashion week

Young silhouette

Miu Miu

While the Prada shows deprive us of Miss Prada’s pure fashion vision now that she co-designs with Raf Simons, Miu Miu is the collection to look forward to. And to lay down her middle European roots – a Prada hall mark, she invited her models to the sunny mountains to show off her bijou colored outerwear and chunky sherbet colored knits worn with over knee fur boots.

Digital paris fashion week Miu Miu outerwear and fur boots

Chunky knits

digital paris fashion week fall winter 2021 miu miu

Bijou colored outerwear