Brexit has been brutal for British designers of a smaller scale. They must import costly fabrics, switch to a Made in England production as shipping back and forth to customary Italy is too expensive and make sure that their retail prices don’t become astronomical to remain competitive. Of course, they still must attract buyers and press from all over the world while it becomes harder and harder to travel to London on a reasonable budget. A hotel room at the Mayfair hotel during London Fashion Week goes for 371£ at a discounted rate. So, no surprise that some designers are closing like Christopher Kane or skipping a show season like Rejina Pyo or becoming a bit irrelevant in their insular Britishness like Richard Quinn. While all this is happening, Erdem Moralioğlu is stepping into the limelight and is becoming London’s big show designer. His show at the British museum last night was a beauty of a collection which smoothly floats in the realm of sophisticated elegance and tough chic ranging from opera-coats to Perfecto leather jackets with a perfectly judged casting of the most interesting models out there like Suzi de Givenchy or Tasha Tilberg opening. Erdem probably has London’s most serious business now as his first lady and movie star looks are compatible for the American, Asian, and Far East markets alike.
Tasha Tilberg opening Erdem’s S/S 2024 in an opera-coat
Suzi de Givenchy
Coming full circle?
ACHTUNG visited the fantastic 30 Years of Newgen London fashion talent exhibition called “Rebel” this morning where pieces of Erdem were shown and where he spoke in a video about these humble beginnings and seeing him take over the British museum, a massive and British to the core monument at night filling his seats with the industry’s finest illustrated on what a big journey he’s been on.
Erdem piece showed at Newgen London fashion talent exhibition “Rebel”
What he is so good at?
His classic silhouettes reminiscent of midcentury couture are pure fashion history. There is a remarkable versatility to his dresses now using lace and boudoir elements but what makes this really work is their pairing with well-judged flat footwear and with oversize tailored jackets or leather Perfectos. Of course, it helps that Erdem is a great colorist using pastel yellows, greens, and blues.
Pairing flat footwear with oversize tailoring
Pastel color ways
Perfecto leather jackets
The British factor?
There is always an Aristo reference somewhere lurking at Erdem shows but this time he not only looked at the Duchess of Devonshire in Norman Parkinson or Cecil Beaton photos but also a leather jacketed Elvis Presley whose hit “Always On My Mind” made for a wonderful soundtrack as rendered by the Pet Shop Boys.
Elvis Presley inspired
Aristo influences
