
It is all starting to make a bit more sense. Sabato de Sarno was number two at Valentino and came to Kering‘s number one Gucci while the group bought thirty percent of Valentino to add a classic fashion brand to its roster. François-Henri Pinault wants to make Gucci less about fashion and more about classicism and good taste. This is exactly what Gucci’s first show under the new design reign of De Sarno was all about. Impeccable taste, well-judged combinations, no risk taking at all. Maybe the biggest risk was the outdoor show location in Brera which was canceled at the last minute due to inclement weather and transferred to the Gucci Hub next to Linate. In Brera this show of short skirts and shorts, split open skirts, fringy coats and apple green color shots might have become a home run. De Sarno certainly did his job of elevation and if it was only that he put the classic loafers on the runway in a major platform version and added some serious heels with his skirts and mini shift dresses. There were a lot of shiny surfaces, and they were often combined with denim to balance out or powered up with lace bustiers towards the end. And fresh off his deal to buy a Hollywood talent agency, Pinault’s Gucci had one of the most rarely seen at shows “Pretty Woman” Julia Roberts in the front row with Daria Werbowy and Ryan Gosling.

Short skirts

Color shots

The classic Gucci loafer with major platforms

Lacey garments
What was missing?
The show was high on the execution of simple shapes and making them look great is an art but it was short on fresh ideas about silhouette or new techniques.

Classic silhouettes

Quintessential shapes
The strongest part?
Gucci has been very good at making denim with a very wide leg for men and women of late, and there was a section of big volume on the thigh jeans and combined with navy knitwear pieces with the collars encrusted in crystals which looked effortless, and chic enhanced by the natural makeup.

Great denim looks

Elevated knitwear
The good taste gesture?
De Sarno sent out a few mini dresses in black at the end which he combined with tennis sneakers – the look of a cool girl going to DC-10 on a Monday night in Ibiza.

Classic LBD styled with tennis sneakers

The cool new Gucci girl

Sabato De Sarno after his first show for Gucci S/S 2024


