Much has been said that we are moving out of a period of street wear and into finer territories where tailoring is the key to success. After Anthony Vaccarello with Saint Laurent in Berlin, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons made a similar statement with yesterday’s show. They were strictly sticking to a 40’s silhouette with big shoulders and a nipped waist plus of course a wide array of meta- and physical inspirations. Ever the art connaisseurs, this time we saw Joseph Beuys’ photographer vests, Matthew Barney evoking slime drop walls and an HR Giger (the Swiss creator of the Alien look) inspired atmosphere. But the big news was the silhouette. When clothes don’t announce their provenance via logos they can also do it via shape. Every lining, every piece of construction was left out to create a feather light, body conscious collection which drew out a big T. And it was sexually charged as well from the nearly too crude Nine Inch Nails soundtrack “Closer” with its explicit lyrics to the masculine but lean cast of young gents.
Big shoulders
Nipped waist
Slime cascading down from the ceiling
Joseph Beuys informed many aspects of the Prada Uomo S/S 2024 collection
Extreme elegance meets utilitarian?
The Joseph Beuys inspired multi pocket vests showed up throughout the collection and either worn with white shirts and loose jeans or attached over the tailored high waisted shorts and shirts to make for a captivating juxtaposition.
The Joseph Beuys look
Also in a faux fur iteration
Our highlight?
There was a series of outerwear jackets with shorts accessorized with giant crumpled under the arm satchels in color block red and green which juxtaposed the fluidity of the silhouette in a stark fashion.
Crumpled satchel style bags for Prada Uomo S/S 2024
With color block styling
The footwear?
Looking like they were dipped in the slime coming down from the ceiling, the ultra-flat loafers in strong colors like red and Prada green grounded the clothes with an exclamation mark.
Flat loafers grounding the silhouettes
