For Achtung, Grace Wales Bonner is the most exciting designer working in fashion at the moment. Her research driven approach to the garments and culture of her Afro-Atlantic ancestry represents l’air du temps and has helped her to carve out a niche. We are also happy to say that she is the Artistic Director of the Fashion department at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna. Let’s not forget Helmut Lang, Karl Lagerfeld or Bernhard Willhelm have elevated this teaching position in the past. This time Wales Bonner zeroed in on Black Sunlight, a good title for a collection in the first place, but her textile interpretation of a 1980’s poetry movement led by Derek Walcott. Her opening look of red shirt and black pants, her tailored jackets with patch pockets and a rigid waist plus big button coats convey soulful clothes, at ease in their environment.