It’s been a while now that Marine Serre has been considered a maverick brand. She won the LVMH prize in 2017 and her eco conscious fashion seemed destined to show the way for the future of fashion. Fellow French designer Jacquemus who was only the finalist of the prize in 2014 has created a global brand with nearly a quarter million turnover since then by building up his shows as social media phenomenons. So, it came as no surprise that when Pitti invited Serre to present her first official men’s wear show here in Florence that she used the opportunity to make a major statement. Over the hills of Florence, she took over a villa and garden to send out an eco-futurist collection which felt fresh but not directional as the oversize silhouettes had been too much seen before. Still, Serre showed what an advanced regeneration and upcycling process can do to jackets and coats many of them boasting German slogans like “100 Jahre General-Anzeiger”. Using an all-star male model cast featuring Scott Barnhill or Mark Vanderloo and Fernando Cabral felt out of synch for a brand which wants to address a new generation of male shoppers but the inclusion of her women’s wear and famous crescent-moon logo as jewelry and print presented the entire Marine Serre universe in a complete line up. And it still excites as she has elevated her up-cycling game to make the garments look crisp.