Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent is becoming more and more the ultimate reference when it comes to ultra chic clothes for young women. His shows are a great example of how much it really matters that a designer understands fabric, cut and the bodies of women. The way he accentuates the shoulder to stretch his silhouette is breathtaking and in his hands the new look – introduced by him last season – of floor length skirts has also been seen on many Milan runways. He has become one of the most influential designers after a rocky start at the venerable house and his custom made set of an arch-Parisian paved garden with a cascading fountain, sweeping staircases and perfectly laid flagstones was impressive. But then, does any Parisian brand have a better set than Vaccarello? Underneath the steps of Trocadéro in full view of the Eiffel tower. We’d say no.

Saint Laurent S/S 2023 Eiffel tower set

The coats and courage?

Vaccarello repeated the look of big shouldered and floor length coats and trenches in earthy toned leathers or tweed wools from the first to the last of his 49 looks. Most of the time the dresses and pants were featured in the same floor-sweeping length. A bold statement, which shows how confident he feels.

The inspiration?

The Martha Graham dance company and the way her dancers wore tubular dresses for her 1930 production “Lamentation” exposing every inch of their toned bodies.

The details?

Vaccarello used a lot of hooding for a slew of his dresses cut from jersey in two different weights reminiscing the Moroccan roots of the brand.