Paris S/S 2025 Highlights Part 4

Chloé screams summer on a rainy day

Chemena Kamali is on a roll after she had a major debut which was often voted as the best show of last season, she has refocused the image which had gone astray under Gabriela Hearst with a cool ad campaign anchoring the brand in Paris through its women, she is getting a boost by dressing American Vice President Kamala Harris who is the most publicized woman on earth at the moment and she smartly focuses on the rich archives first while she is calmly laying out her Chloé project. Her second show was all about transparency with extremely body-con clothing which is grounded in the 70’s and the days of sexual liberation. Every cut is created to expose and enhance the female figure and celebrate it and respond to the urgency of the world we live in. The moment to make an impression is now, not tomorrow as there might be none is the motto. Chloé stands for self-expression. The Chloé woman wants to be looked at and she can easily return the gaze with confidence. While beautiful clothes with sex appeal are having a comeback on runways, Kamali plays in her very own league by making clear that she fully understands the body of a woman. Unlike her old boss the Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello who has been on a similar transparent path as well as the Musée Yves Saint Laurent’s Transparence show, Kamali is on this thin path which only a woman can walk convincingly. Backstage Kamali explained that she validates every single look by asking the question: “Do I believe in this girl?” More fashion historical stuff: A 1977 collection by Karl Lagerfeld got Kamali started.

Chemena Kamali’s Chloé S/S 2025 collection

All about transparency and body-con dressing

Chloé F/W 1977 by Karl Lagerfeld shared by Kamali 2 weeks prior to her second collection for the brand.

Remember David Hamilton?

It felt like some of the models on the runway could walk straight onto a David Hamilton photo shoot with their “barely there” laced mini dresses. Back on the mood board, Kamali had some 1970’s Penthouse covers all dating from the 70’s like Lagerfeld’s collection.

Barely-there laced mini dresses

The Chloé vibe: David Hamilton for Twen magazine 1968

1970’s penthouse covers on Kamali’s moodboard

The bubble silhouette?

Looking at some old Gaby Aghion silhouettes from the 50’s with bubble shapes, gave Kamali a starting point for her very elaborate construction. Lots of dresses were cascading layers of fabric, short in the front and long in the back.

Cascading layers of fabric

Short in the front, long in the back

The suit?

Clearly, Kamala Harris knows why she turns to Chloé: A non-American designer and a big no-no of sorts. Kamali cuts a great jacket with strong shoulders paired with flaring pants. Her big pockets outside make the jackets look new.

Kamala Harris in Chloé

Big patch-pocket jackets

Commercial candy?

Retailers were ogling the super high waisted jeans that Kamali was sporting herself. The best one came on model Liisa Winkler with a tight-laced camisole. All the shoes and clam shape (as in summer clam bake) bags were to die for with extra ribbons, charms, and trims everywhere.

Chemena Kamali taking her bow after the Chloé S/S 2025 show

Model Liisa Winkler wearing our favorite look from the collection

Ribbons, charms and trims everywhere