Paris S/S 2024 Highlights Part 5

Female Form Frontiers

Thirty percent of Valentino now belongs to Kering and it seems the group has made a hard analysis and found out that it had to acquire an elegant Haute Couture house while it already owns an edgy one in Balenciaga. New family member Pierpaolo Piccioli came to Sabato De Sarno’s debut at Gucci (which is looking to elevate its offering by choosing Valentino’s former number 2 designer) and Sarah Burton’s farewell at Alexander McQueen. But all these trips do not seem to distract him. After a stellar Haute Couture show in July, he showed one of his best Ready-to-wear collections in recent memory which was a celebration of the female form and the most tasteful way of showing off a woman’s body. There was no lofty concept to the clothes, no forced mantra like the shirt and tie show from last season, but Piccioli simply doing what he knows best: tasteful and young at heart clothes who consider a women’s body from the mostly flat shoes used to the cool fabrics like denim and the interesting cut outs and drapes around the waist to expose the external oblique portion of the anatomy. To add a serious twist to the proceedings a live dance and singing performance of frequent Valentino collaboratrice FKA Twigs and her group, which created a magic atmosphere in the sunlit École des Beaux-Arts in St. Germain, accompanied the show.

Cut outs around the waist

Mostly flat shoes

Cool denim looks

A master class?

The way Piccioli plays with length, proportion, fabrics and colors is one of a kind. Mostly in white and light colors with one pink exception at the end, his control of cut, line and length is so typical for the house and shines on days like this when he is in top form.

A lot of light colors

The only pink look at the Valentino S/S 2024 show

The atelier takes flight?

Whether it was florals or doves on tops, dresses or even denim, the craftsmanship on the open-worked pieces and the way they were stitched together for feather light concoctions was stunning for a ready to wear show. Valentino called this new technique Altorilievo where the decoration becomes the construction itself.

Florals on dresses

Doves on tops

Florals on denim

Kaia and the gang?

Hiring Kaia Gerber pretty much exclusively for campaigns and to open shows as for this season sporting the new VLogo Moon bag, has been a great idea for Valentino to keep things fresh. The rest of the fresh-faced line up with a slight part on the side and slicked hair was also in perfect balance with the elegant clothes.

Model Kaia Gerber opening the Valentino S/S 2024 show

VLogo Moon Bag

The male gaze?

To free women from the male gaze and as the press notes aptly stated “let the skin become a fabric” was Piccioli’s starting point, which led him to this stunner of a show.

Pierpaolo Piccioli after his Valentino S/S 2024 show