Rick Owens S/S 2025 Men’s back at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris
Tyrone Dylan at Rick Owens S/S 2025 Men’s
The one thing we all look forward to when covering the fashion seasons is the so-called fashion moment. It comes out of nowhere and is what keeps this industry exciting and helps it move forward. A clear crystallization of Zeitgeist. Rick Owens is a master at delivering them and that as one of the few independent fashion designers who has created an entire universe with its own codes and clothes and legions of fans. At heart of it all is his Los Angeles heritage and none bigger than the local obsession called Hollywood – the title of yesterday’s fantastical display of his new men’s collection. Owens is a fan of Cecil Blount DeMille who was an American filmmaker and actor of the black and white era and widely considered the founding father of American cinema. The themes of social drama, comedy or plays on sin, morality and farces are the backbone of any Owens show and Hollywood and Los Angeles are where he first rose to fame as a maker of fashion. Owens has shown endurance in his career, and he also asks this of his audience as he put on this very long fashion show which looked like it was straight out of a classic movie like Cleopatra with a float held up by strong men and a model on top holding a unity flag of two hands holding each other. Owens said he chose the motif only last week in his studio. Whether this full-on parade delivered on new fashion was beside the point – there were fantastic parachute silk trousers with zippers in the back and cool hooded biker jackets – but Owens made a strong call for dignity and unity. Coming from the super individualist it made for this special moment.
Rick Owens put on quite a show for his S/S 2025 Men’s collection
Parachute silk trousers
Hooded biker jackets
Inclusion to the max?
Owens who is critical of shows who use one or two plus size models to fulfill a quota, adjusted his entire design process for this show as the bulk of the models were real people, he found at fashion schools all over Paris with curvaceous bodies from big body builders to plus size women.
Using a cast of “real” people…
…but of course also Rick-runway-returners: Hannah from Matieres Fecales
The knitwear?
Owens has been challenging and championing his Italian manufacturers from the get-go of his label but the pulled down spider web knits on the last group of models with face masks was simply stunning.
Spider web knits worn by a group of models with facemasks
