Paris Men’s Highlights S/S 2023 Part 2

Dialing up the fashion

Fashion is all about fashion. At least, that’s what it should be. Lately, we have entered the phase of logomania even amongst the most cherished of fashion houses like Chanel, Dior or even Prada. The logos are everywhere and the bigger the branding gets, the smaller the fashion value attached to the clothes. In his first live runway show since the pandemic, Dries Van Noten addressed this issue by sending out an emphatic men’s fashion collection which was based on pure design: meticulous research on men‘s archetypes like a rocker, dandy, day dreamer or cowboy, arresting fabric mixes in silk, mesh, wool or leather, taut tailoring, elementary colors and energetic sportswear with not a logo in sight. Held on a parking garage rooftop in the 18th arrondissement, this was the show the season needed after many shows that were only about emblazoning a logo. Of course, the first word to come out of Van Noten’s mouth to describe the clothes was elegance when asked post-show.

Energetic sportswear

Taut tailoring

The real secret?

Connecting with youth culture is one of Van Noten’s strengths and here it came to the fore again in new detail. Bringing in camisole tops instead of wife beaters is exactly the vibe of young men now, plus his corset/cummerbund numbers on the opening looks convinced. A painstaking researcher the designer also looked at the Zazou movement in Paris during World War II to imbue his clothes with a “dancing the trouble” away attitude.

Camisoles instead of wife beaters

Cummerbund in opening look

The suit?

Van Noten’s had always loved a Savile Row silhouette and his six button, big shoulder, double-breasters were a delight. Van Noten also breaks the suit by pairing jackets with motorcycle looking pants.

Savile Row silhouette

Style mix

Only miss?

The fact that Van Noten jumped on the shorts combined with cowboy boots wagon was the only downer of this show.

Dries Van Noten after presenting his S/S 2023 collection