Paris Men’s Highlights S/S 2023 Part 1

Finally, Givenchy

Judging from his slightly edgy composure barking answers at the post show press conference, the lackluster reviews by the press since taking over the storied Haute Couture house Givenchy got under Matthew Williams skin. And maybe that’s exactly what had been the problem. While he tried to make things a bit too couture, he had a big success on his hands with his latest men’s runway show where all his strength as a designer came to the fore: Credible street wear with haute aspirations and details and not the other way round. Choosing to let his models walk in water around a big black white box built in the courtyard of the École militaire across from UNESCO, the show soared above its street wear landmarks like Givenchy logoed T-Shirts and jackets and became an exercise on how cool young men all over the world like to dress now: Eccentric, cool, deeply personal. Of course, it helps that Williams is friends with many of them and they are musicians, DJ’s and actors. But nobody builds the Los Angeles – Paris bridge more credible than him ever since Hedi Slimane left that position open. And all big fashion catalysts have been coming out of the music community in the past few years and Williams has a firm foot in the door here. His slightly junky orthopedic looking footwear might just be the next global trend.

Set in the École militaire courtyard for Givenchy men’s S/S 2023

The logo?

“Our logo hasn’t changed in 70 years,” claimed Williams and used it as explanation for the widespread usage of the logotype on headbands, down track pants and on the necklines of jackets.

Logomania at Givenchy men’s S/S 2023

The Williams signature?

Williams came into this gig with a reputation of making the coolest hardware in the business making metal accessories that have become part of his outfits’ body armor. So he launched a dedicated men’s jewelry line with this collection bound to be propelling the category.

Matthew Williams’ signature jewelry for Givenchy

The vibe?

The clear understanding of contemporary sportswear made this such a good show. Denim shorts and shorts in just the right proportion, the use of cool neon colors, super tooled leather jackets. This was spot on.

Tooled leather jackets

Denim shorts

Matthew Williams, creative director of Givenchy