Paris Men’s Highlights F/W 2024 Part 5
GmbH closes Paris men’s fashion week with a strong statement
January 22, 2024

Should fashion be political? If one had asked Katharine Hamnett or Vivienne Westwood, they would have emphatically answered yes as they saw fashion as means to draw attention to environmental and human rights issues. The GmbH designers Serhat Işık and Benjamin Huseby did the same last night with their closing show of Paris men‘s fashion week. They just ventured on a more slippery territory – the war in Gaza and the injustice done to Palestinians from their historical and current point of view. They read a speech from a lantern before the show bringing the room to an uncomfortable silence while Huseby clearly choked and nearly broke down in tears. Major compliment to the duo for taking a stance in an age when designers are removed from major online stores for making politically motivated statements. It’s a minefield as the two sides to the story of this war hold their ground. The terrific collection they sent out afterwards spoke volumes about their feelings. Anchored in their signature dancefloor outfit of tight shorts and long-sleeve T-Shirts over leather pants with their signature two zippers, the collection had its highlight in its inventive cut out tailoring, great boots and beautiful knitwear. The designers have their focus on social inequality, multiculturalism and other topics and then translate that into sartorial clothing. They used keffiyehs, the traditional headdress worn by men from parts of the Middle East throughout the show which came form the Jerash refugee camp in Jordan where Palestinians and Syrian refugees embroider them by hand. But even the keffiyeh is politically charged at the moment which is a clear sign of the designers’ courage.

Inventive tailoring

Heavy use of the keffiyeh motif

Beautiful knitwear
The highlights?
The mere use of a keffiyeh is an aspect of layering and the designers excel at it. They love to combine roomy shorts over leggings with zippered boots, long-sleeve T’s over short sleeves and knee long coats over shorter and one shaggy bomber. Also, several tailored looks had a cut out crotch up to the chest section which looked fresh.

Roomy shorts over leggings

Cut out crotch in the tailored jackets
The Berlin vibe?
GmbH are the only designers from Berlin who manage to channel the city’s urban gritty vibe into a fashion collection. The multi-ethnic elements and Arab writing on shirts reflect Sonnenallee, the dance floor outfits the club scene and the protective outerwear the cold temperatures in winter just as their always excellent casting of friends and models where we spotted out the American knitwear designer Edward Buchanan.

Dancefloor outfits

Edward Buchanan for GmbH S/S 2024

