This is how it works in men’s wear. Ideas show up at Pitti Uomo as the selection of the guest designers is unparalleled and often presents a member of the avant-garde like Luca Magliano. Trends surface in Milan where Prada is a true men’s wear leader but the confirmation of what really sticks comes from Paris. Magliano and S.S.Daley showed great collections based on tailoring in Florence, Gucci, Zegna and Prada agreed on coats and suits in Milan but leave it up to Dries Van Noten in Paris to capture the long and lean suiting silhouette of the season.
Long and lean silhouettes
Dries Van Noten men’s F/W 2024
Great tailoring
No boxyness but sharp body-caressing double-breasted suits in the finest English wools and juxtaposed with washed out denim, military references and deconstructed sportswear. This was easily the best show of the season spelling out what modern men’s wear is all about – not logos, not work- or street-wear but a big selection of studiously designed garments that spell out elegance, masculinity and desirability as were all the suits, coats and knitwear. You want to see men dressed like this or even be one of them.
Sharp and body-caressing suits
Military references
Modern men’s knitwear
The best looks?
To have an intuition of how to shorten, extend and sharpen a silhouette is what makes a great designer. There was a series of double-breasted suits and coats with six buttons which were stretched in length and filled with volume to give this dialed-up tailoring season a highlight.
Stretched silhouettes
Elongated double-breasters
The tension?
Always looking to create tension with his looks, Van Noten cut off sweater tops to layer them with leather bodies or he piled up sweaters around the neck and shoulders held by safety pins for a nomadic look. Throwing in his signature pastel colors with a mostly black opening and closing, he was in top form.
Leather layers
Piled up knit around the neck
The denim?
From the double-breasted suit to the bigger volume jeans lurking out under a beige pea coat, all the faded denim pieces looked terrifically on par with what Prada had shown earlier.
Dries Van Noten’s denim for F/W 2024
Peaking out under coats
Full on denim trench coat
