Hermès Men’s F/W 2019
Véronique Nichanian is often envied by her designer peers because not only does she work for one of the most revered houses in the world but even better the Hermès top management does not interfere at all with her design process. Everywhere else CEO’s demand from their designers to create new product categories, or more usage of logos or showing sneakers. Not chez Hermès, Pierre-Alexis Dumas just does not do that. And in a season where the other big Parisian luxury leather house Louis Vuitton had a pretty bad fashion collection high on hype, Nichanian showed an excellent fashion collection low on it. Voilà, this is what really makes the difference here. Social media impressions do not rule at Hermès, influencers are not in the front row because only the product matters. And Nichanian delivered with a wonderful mostly in blue show of exquisite tailoring and stunning outerwear. Yes, it feels good to be at an old school show like this. But let’s not forget, this approach works very well with Hermès’ revenues growing and growing.
What makes the difference?
Nichanian knows her craft very well. Whatever she picks to be in the line up is part of the encyclopedia of men’s wear: Caban, trench, bomber, shearling, etc. but always well judged and executed.
Smooth leather used for various types of coats on the runway
The tailoring?
Single-breasted two button blue suits or grey double-breasted pin stripe versions worn with shirts and turtlenecks showed off Nichanian’s penchant for cut and line.
Classic single- or double-breasted suits in dark colors
Talking about leather?
Leather pants for men are not an easy subject. But at Hermès they are just so plausible and look like they’re part of a regal military officer uniform. Of course, the army could never afford to outfit their troops with leather.
Leather was the signature material featured in the collection. Used for coats, pants and accessories
Best piece?
Without a doubt, her new technical trench coat with not two but four pockets was outstanding. Two angular chest pockets and two straight waist pockets shown with a turtleneck on an Asian model impressed.
A simple, but classic trench coat worn with a turtleneck and a black leather bag
