Paris men’s season has been getting better and better with more talent from all over the globe checking in. Case in point, last night’s Willy Chavarria show which jumped from New York to Paris. Recently there has been a new flock of Japanese talent like Doublet but one of ACHTUNG‘s secret favorites has been Junichi Abe’s label Kolor which distinguished itself with its bright use of color as the name suggests. But more importantly a witty trompe-l’oeil construction where the look often suggested multiple layers of garments which in fact was only one. A rather technical and pattern cutting type of work which Abe perfects in his Tokyo studio with weeks of fittings before the final garments are flown to Paris. This time Abe added a note for his audience in which he quietly bid farewell to his brand. A complete surprise but the letter assured Kolor will continue to exist with him stepping into the second row from now on. Or hopefully taking on another project? His swan song offered up plenty of his signatures like his love for wintery Middle European dress as in thick corduroys or Loden coats which gave the show a regal air. Abe came down the runway in a bottle green corduroy jacket with elbow leather pads and a pensive smile.