
After a few less fashion but more costume and community driven outings on the runway, Rick Owens presented a hit collection which put him firmly back in place as one of fashion’s leaders. Here was a show that was about silhouette, craftsmanship and for the unexpected twist – outerwear. But his version of thermals, wind breakers and long coats will add a new dialogue to the conversation fashion is having with the outdoors. Or shall we call that a Rick-monologue? While Paris and Europe in general is seeing a cold January technical puffers are everywhere including plenty of collabs between sub-zero temperature experts and fashion brands. Owens who has worked for Moncler before, avoided that route and concocted his own take, which means fashion. There was also a much-needed element of craftsmanship after a few more generic seasons so Owens worked on fantastic black leather lined denim pants in generous volumes which looked very couture and stitched together by his artisans in Concordia by hand. Or the mille feuille technique tops and coats which flowed around the models’ torsos while the flaring pants had leathers strips anchoring the silhouette. He made terrific coats held together by different layers of zippers and it seemed he made everything less towering and soaring but grounded to add the rare dose of reality. Owens is always best when his looks look like they can go from the runway straight onto the street.

Outerwear, the Rick Owens way

The “mille feuille” technique

Flared pants anchoring the silhouette, designed by collaborator Victor Clavelly
Twist in casting?

Good casting for Rick Owens Men‘s F/W 2025

The towering silhouette?
After a period of Victorian shaped trousers, Owens put new focus on a bottom to top silhouette which resembled a tower with giant stand up collars, sometimes shorter boleros around the ribcage and then flaring pants.

The new Rick Owens silhouette


