Paris Men’s F/W 2025 Highlights Part 1

When old is new at Paul Smith

This is interesting. Zegna had a mega show by looking at the founder’s wardrobe and updating some of his best pieces in new generation fabrics. Paul Smith, who can easily be considered a quiet force in men’s wear picked up on the same concept by channeling his father Harold Smith’s photography work and 60’s wardrobe into his new collection. Smith worked a small room in his stately headquarter in the Marais like a stand up comedian sharing a small stage with his models and explaining every look. Can a 78 year old man who talks about his father in the 60’s make a relevant statement about contemporary clothes? You bet he can. As Smith managed to make the audience often break out in laughter inventing a whole new format of show presentation and with his spot on soft tailoring with many smart details like pairing a double breasted jacket with a single breasted lapel and inserting his dad’s doodles as fabric lining or using Harold’s floral photographs as distorted prints on shirts and ties.

Double-jacket-layering

Paul Smith Men‘s F/W 2025 collection presented by Paul Smith

Floral photo prints

Hello 60’s icons?

Harold Smith was a fan of photographer David Bailey and Terence Donovan and introduced his son to their work by giving him a camera for his 11th birthday and embedding the photographers’ wardrobes of bespoke suits with Dr. Martens into his stylistic memory and repertoire. In Smith’s hands this look is new as he opted to mismatch his classic English fabrics in jackets and pants to make a new suit and he kept shirt and tie in identical fabrics and color.

Mismatching classic English fabrics

Matching shirt and tie

The king of the collab?

Not only does he curate an exhibition in the Paris Picasso museum or put his signature stripes on Mini cars or Leica cameras, in a big moment of outdoor in fashion, he presented a Barbour project with little birds in the lining or old show invitations as labels. After showing at Pitti in Florence, he is back in Paris and seems to very much be in top form.

Two-Brit-Team: Paul Smith and Barbour

Paul Smith Men’s F/W 2025 presentation in Paris