JW Anderson

Primitive play with materials is how Jonathan Anderson describes the DNA of his brand. That plus a deft play with volumes over the years has gotten him to the pinnacle of fashion. His Loewe is probably the most creative project in the LVMH group today and his own brand is as creative as it was on day one. He has championed young fashion photographers in the past creating booklets and now he turned to German Juergen Teller to give his unpredictable spin to this collection, which saw the date of its launch, early in the New Year as the theme. Standout was his knee length shearling with a shawl collar and the giant, colorful patchwork sweaters, which telegraph joy and optimism for the new decade.

Dries Van Noten

What makes Dries Van Noten so endearing is that after more than three decades in the business and being an established designer, his shows and presentations can still feel underground and alternative. Case in point this latest men’s collection video with its repetitive industrial soundtrack and Antwerp harbor worker look alike opening model, had a ring of young independent designer to it. Of course, very connected as in pulling in models of the moment – the Germans Jonas Gloer and Leon Dame — to showcase a modern riff on shirt dressing. Yes, the shirt was center point being cut as long as the coat in the opening looks to short sleeve and long sleeve layering with typical Van Noten embroideries. Playing with volume and length like an experienced designer are naturally part of his repertoire but the rawness of it all felt fresh. Baggy pants, chunky boots and shiny parkas made for one of Van Noten’s edgiest collections in a while.

GmbH

Anyone who uses Rainer Maria Fassbinder as a reference is on top of our list to watch. Welt am Draht was a 1973 science fiction TV series starring a young Klaus Löwitsch in which Fassbinder focused on philosophic aspects of the human mind and the role of scientific research. In short, a big time brainy collection starting point which Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby couldn’t resist. GmbH is seriously upping the couture aspect of their collections something rather unusual coming from a brand from Berlin. The pulled down shoulders on jackets, creating a bondage strap effect looked great. Also, they continue to brand themselves bringing their double zippers on the back of jackets. And yes, a cliché is a cliché, the clothes are clearly made for people who want to meet other people and see them without clothes.