
Why celebrate a fifth anniversary at a house? Seems like Kim Jones had a premonition regarding WWD‘s cover story yesterday about the short lived tenure of some designers. His is an exception to the rule now as Kim Jones knows how to remain the talk of town. After a furios five years with artist (Peter Doig), rap star (Travis Scott), writer (Jack Kerouac), sports company (Nike) and other designer (Shawn Stussy) collabs, Jones felt it was time to focus on the basics. He showed a pared down tailored collection prooving that he can set the template when it comes to the length of trousers or the shape of shoulders. He has propelled the business forward by adding sneakers to the canon and sells them like hot cakes plus another category which his master Bernard Arnault must love him for. The sale of Dior men’s hand bags which are seen all over the world. So no wonder he was allowed a gigantic set and spectacle at the École Militaire yesterday where the models were beamed up Startrek-like from underneath the tent to appear in front of the audience which included many of his peers he respects like Pharrell Williams, Stefano Pilati, Chitose Abe, Jeremy Scott or Grace Wales Bonner. The clothes felt a bit too wintery but the short length trousers and outstanding knitwear set a whole new template for how men can dress today.

Wintery fabric choices for Dior Men’s S/S 2024 collection

Super short shorts

Dior Men’s handbags

Sterile set to put focus on a great S/S 2024 collection by Kim Jones for Dior Men

Beam me up, Kim
The archive?
Jones understands like nobody else to make a house archive contemporary or to draw inspiration from it. Looking at hem lines of old couture dresses he decided to upend the current men’s obsession with the wide and full leg pants by showing this collection with mostly high-water pants. He can do that, compare hem lines to pant lengths. He also looked at an Yves Saint Laurent designed Dior collection from 1959 for the coats which all came in rich cannage embroidery.

High-water hemlines on most pants

Rich embroidery
Why is Jones so perfect at Dior Men?
Jones is a passionate collector of art as was Christian Dior. He loves the outdoors as he grew up in Africa and Dior was a garden person. And he is a true couture aficionado like the founder of the house. So, Pietro Beccari who hired him really picked the right guy who fits the demanding job description.

Kim Jones after presenting his Dior Men S/S 2024 collection

Christian Dior overlooking his famous gardens © Willy Maywald

