It means something when the most avant-garde and meanwhile established fashion designer in the world changes course. Even Rick Owens is somewhat bidding farewell to his apocalyptic Mad Max look with a customary heavy dose of M89 military influence to embrace a new elegance. As streetwear is on its last leg – only Vuitton didn’t get the memo – the men’s wear arena is welcoming a new protagonist who has been hiding in the closet. The elegant suit with a tailored high waisted Victorian pant and beautiful jackets which shape the shoulder and accentuate the waist. Elegance was what Rick Owens wanted to conjure up albeit with all his wicked humor as in silky upside-down tops and a parade of fireworks in his beloved location in the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo next to the Seine. Even Owens wore a beautiful long black single-breasted coat when he took his bow and not his usual tank top for his summer shows. And a black trucker hat. Message sent and well received. In fact, the entire collection was pretty much black.
Tailored high waisted Victorian pants
Rick Owens in a long black single-breasted coat and a black trucker hat
What time is it?
Owens opted for a classic hourglass shape for his silhouette. His cropped tailored jackets had his usual big shoulders, cinched waists and floor length pyramid pants. His coats were the standout hanging long and loose to opera premiere effect. Everything came in ultra-luxe wools from the best Italian mill Bonotto called Grain de Poudre.
Tailored jackets with their usual big shoulders
Coats hanging long and loose
The pieces which stood out?
Always an innovator of footwear, Owens introduced a pair of sandals which looked like they had small pillows attached to them. He cut a maxi Perfecto leather jacket in just the big new volume proportion to look like an entirely new garment and all the Victorian trousers which splash out on the floor looked great.
Owens introduced a new pair of sandals
Victorian trousers which splash out on the floor
Perfecto leather jacket
The female gestures?
Owens explained backstage that he “threw silk” on the models. He was using a nearly weightless Habotai fabric generally reserved for weddings to make shirts and tunics which float in the air and around the body.
Tunics made out of Habotai fabric
Cut out leather jacket
