Vautrait is slowly but surely becoming a must-see show. By reworking his own past collections, recontextualizing his family tree and a clear focus on leather, Yonathan Carmel, a young Israeli designer living between Tel Aviv and Italy has presented one of the strongest collections we have seen in Paris so far. Vautrait exudes major understanding of strong and feminine dressing for 2025. For example, a maxi knee length leather jacket worn by Suzi de Givenchy with a super stiff high collar or an all over leather look consisting of a cropped distressed leather jacket worn with black leather shorts and thigh high boots were super fresh while the silhouette inspiration had a last century undercurrent. Woolen opera coats rounded around the torso and getting tight from the hips down, or an A-line long bolero in a pleated fabric with matching skirt could have very well been fashion sketches from the past century, which is even more interesting knowing that the designer has Austrian roots and recently discovered his grandmother ran a dress salon in Vienna before World War II.

Past century silhouette inspiration

Putting the focus on the craft of garment making must bear challenges for a young brand but it is so much more rewarding when the result is a mature and thought-out collection like this one. Carmel added some dresses in black leather with an integrated glove holding the other arm for a more poetic take on his big focus of handcraft. It stood out in a line-up of otherwise rather toughened-up outfits with very broad and bold cuts. The floor-sweeping brown fur coat – which we should be tired of seeing at this point – styled with a velours cargo vest in a beautiful hazel-tone and tied around the waist was a head turner. Shown on a very age-diverse cast, Vautrait positions itself as a brand for all women looking for garments with character and history. It’s about putting a timestamp on a look, reworking it for the next collection and not shying away from using found and upcycled materials. The checkered suiting portion of the collection gave the Vautrait woman a confident broad shoulder while the diamond pattern dress worn with an office folder encased in the same knit fabric puts this brand straight into the Tik-Tok-dressing trend cycle and digital relevance while underlining old world values.