Paris F/W 2025 Highlights Day 7

New outlooks for different houses

March 10, 2025

Duran Lantink

Every decade or so a groundbreaking photography or design talent comes from Holland. In 2025 it’s Carlijn Jacobs and Duran Lantink (remember Inez&Vinoodh or Viktor&Rolf) who energized yesterday’s calm fashion Sunday with a show that merged silhouette, pattern, and Zeitgeist to make it the talk of the day and dare we say week. The idea of the exaggerated female form is becoming a trend on other runways now, but Lantik can claim it as his very own. His women have literally been taken up space for a few years now with his padded hips and shoulders, breasts, and bottoms to surprisingly desirable and wearable effect. A graduate of the prestigious Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam, Lantink can not only deliver fashion fantasy but also some instantly desirable clothes like leather jackets, zebra coats and camouflage body stockings. Lantink threw in great knitwear and snakeskin pants to signal his shop floor offensive. What made this a fashion moment was the fantastic casting including Germans Penny Ternes and Leon Dame plus all the “of the moments” and the clever office setting with cubicles manned by a cast of real-life executive assistants who took care of the show’s soundtrack by belting out a sad siren choir. The juxtaposition of the ordinary office with his bold new shapes which cleverly connected the dots in combination with archetypical fashion staples like trench and denim dressing, animal skin prints and chunky knit cardigans – this show was at once familiar and fantastic. A good sense of humor added to the success as the opening look female model wore a male torso 3D sculpt while the closing male model wore DD size female breasts.

Duran Lantink F/W 2025

Explosion of female shapes

Animal-prints

Sculptural knitwear

Camo-prints in tight tops

Closing look of Duran Lantink F/W 2025

Akris

Albert Kriemler took a very surprising but confident step forward with his latest collection for Akris by making it about the color blue. Even better his sophisticated and feathery dresses were a metaphor for stepping into the twilight. Hence, his customary daywear focus dramatically shifted to evening wear with eye-catching reflections and the right wardrobe to wear during blue hour and the parties right after. Rarely have we seen Kriemler add so many side slits to skirts or engage with floating panels. The way the color was used on his silk coats and leg baring dresses reminded us of the shades of green he masterfully used in his Thomas Ruff inspired photo print collection for Fall/Winter 2014 nearly a decade ago. This time he turned to artist Alyson Shotz and her treatise of midwinter light and its blue shades. Kriemler embraced the exuberance of feathers in shades ranging from blue and navy to black as used in his closing look of a simple sheath dress with a plain back and an explosion of feather works in front. Using an uplifting electronic soundtrack in his monastery location lit in blue this was the glimpse of a new Akris.