Paris F/W 2025 Highlights Day 6

Spirit comes and goes

March 9, 2025

Ann Demeulemeester

So, think 2025 niche IG dressing, add a distressed rim hat and some signature Ann Demeulemeester-typical straps being swept around the floor and you have the current state of this brand. The tailoring was strong, and there were good, washed denim jacket looks with ruffle shirts underneath that blend in at a hip sushi place or natural wine bar. Designer Stefano Gallici hones in on the signatures like billowy shirts, genderless dressing, classic leather moments, ruffles here and there but what’s missing is the allure. This is no reinvention of the original indie youthful dressing. It’s lacking the disruptive spirit this brand has been known and beloved for.

Ann Demeulemeester F/W 2025

Washed denim jacket with ruffle shirt underneath

Classic leather moment

Matières Fécales Paris

Talking about disruption. This brand is very new on the market and official Parisian calendar. A duo known from IG stories many many moons ago in which both founders, Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, hype each other up to pose for their iPhone lens on some crowded, busy NY crosswalk to just „be themselves“ and attract attention. And of course their DJ sets. Now they are called Matières Fécales Paris with a salon style runway debut. The motto: Be yourself, no matter how strange, this felt like a very genuine presentation. The line-up had a couple of good tailoring moments – obviously – the duo met at fashion school developing together their love of pattern making. Some looks consisting of a T-shirt paired with those spikey full-length arm gloves took a little away from the craft and put more focus on the shock factor. The red gown had us thinking of Divine, a fresh reference these days in Paris. Young fashion voice amplifier Debra Shaw gave the designers their debut blessing and the surprising hardstyle finale is instilling hope that the duo can take things further for their next defilée above being able to have Matières Fécales spelled out on the FHCM calendar. Already a feat and a new spirit.