Paris F/W 2024 Highlights Part 7

Celine’s master class

Many years ago, when he left Saint Laurent and took over at Celine, Hedi Slimane was the role model what a modern fashion designer should be. A 360-degree vision creative who makes great clothes, makes sure the stores look like that as well, maybe redesigns the logo, shoots the campaigns, and adds brand extensions like fragrance or a pet collection. The industry is now much more about promoting the number twos to the top job as we know, and the super star creative designer is a bit in the shadow. With Tom Ford no longer a fashion designer – he often shot his own campaigns – Riccardo Tisci without a gig while in his Burberry days he was trying to do all the things mentioned above except for shooting campaigns, even Nicolas Ghesquière tried out as a photographer for a moment and so did many more, one could argue that with the disappearance of Karl Lagerfeld in 2019 who was the first designer to brand himself like a 360-vision creative, Hedi Slimane is the only one left. And here is the big news. He is getting better and better. The latest collection for the house of Celine he unveiled yesterday via video called “Triomphe” was without a doubt his most precise and clear expression of his Celine vision which he seems to have timed and planned like a mission to land on the moon. Nearly seven years into it, he has established a clear set of now more elegant codes. When he started, he was still shaking off his Saint Laurent California vintage vibe, but with this collection he has now entered the phase of his career establishing his gaze towards fashion in all its complexities.

Hedi Slimane’s Celine F/W 2024

Marching to the beat of his own drums?

While most runways are still obsessed with the 90’s from grunge to super sexuality, Slimane changed gears completely and looked at the 60’s. A-line shapes and short hemlines were at the core of this. While he dedicated this show to Richard Avedon, one could not stop thinking about the great William Klein and his movie “Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo?which powerfully showcased the fashion mood of the 60’s.

 

A-line silhouettes

Short hemlines

Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? by William Klein. Film poster from 1966

The 360 vision?

While presenting this new collection with a super sharp video shot in different art deco museums all over Paris like the Musée Bourdelle, the film often cut back and forth from the clothes to beautiful Antoine Bourdelle sculptures. But even better, Slimane managed to introduce his new Celine beauty project with several screens of models getting ready in front of a mirror using the logo stamped lipstick which will be introduced in 2025.

Celine F/W 2024 was set in Parisian art deco museums

Celine Beauté

The wow effect?

This collection looked super sophisticated and at the same time super young with impeccable casting of mostly new faces who will certainly be seen around other campaigns. Also, the logo stamped Pillbow hats and giant bows on some dresses added fashion flair.

Sophisticated collection

Logo stamped hats