Here are some thoughts about yesterday‘s Vetements show. The brand created by Demna Gvasalia – and maybe his brother Guram – was always about supersizing clothes, maximizing their volumes. About a bit too much. But Guram Gvasalia who originally served as the business brain behind Vetements lining up one genius collaboration after another but has recently preferred to see himself as the designer seems to have misunderstood that Vetements ethos. His show started nearly an hour too late, it was way too long with three different sections and it had too many of the same clothes with the same idea. Making them too oversized for 2024 as that look is too far in the rear mirror. In front of a first row which included Nicola Formichetti next to Juergen Teller next to Gabriela Hearst next to Delfina Delettrez which made not too much sense, the finale was one of the worst choreographed endings to a fashion show ACHTUNG has seen in a long time. It was closed by Desperate Housewives star Marcia Cross and one could only think what a desperate brother who has not added one new idea to the Vetements canon and seems to continue copying his brother‘s Balenciaga runways when it comes to evening wear. Furthermore, he keeps on badmouthing Demna.
Supersized clothing
Guram Gvasalia’s Vetements F/W 2024 collection
Marcia Cross closing out the show in a red evening gown
The clothes and casting?
Oversize everything from long trains on jeans for men to basic white T-shirts with slogans that no longer seem funny. One idea of inserting a circular construction into sleeves and shoulders made for a cool look. Guram has a very good casting notion (apart from Marcia Cross) and his street cast models with their fresh buzz cuts helped him make a credible statement of youth culture.
Circular sleeve constructions
Credible casting
The finale?
Natalia Vodianova opened the show and came out with designer Gvasalia to take his bow. Then Carmen Kass, Marcia Cross, Gvasalia, Natalia and a fourth model all kissed and hugged each other in a truly cringe-inducing moment.
Natalia Vodianova opening Vetements F/W 2024
Vetements F/W 2024 finale
The door?
Talking about a mess. Muscular heavy weights working for an obscure security company were shouting into people’s faces and pushing them for no good reason in the tight rue Cambon at the back entrance of the Ritz and Chanel. Nothing was dignified here as those neighbors suggest. Even Gvasalia came out at one point to solve the situation certainly a first for a designer at their own fashion show.
