New York is all about coming and going. From the big mega brands, it’s only Ralph Lauren who still stays on the very top. Kind of. Donna Karan, gone, Calvin Klein, an underwear brand, Tommy Hilfiger, never really made it, and of course Michael Kors who has been staying at the top and relevant. Marc Jacobs is considered a beauty business with cool shows, Tom Ford is a little bit the same model and Thom Browne is on his way up as a ready to wear brand along with Tory Burch. And then there is Catherine Holstein and her label Khaite. It happened under the radar, but together with Gabriela Hearst this is the must see show in New York. Holstein nails the street-smart Gotham look, based on the materials leather and denim better than anyone else. There is something strong and stealth happening with her black leather bombers and Uptown chic taut tailoring. Her show in her new flagship shop on Mercer Street made us remember the destinies of her two New York stealth cool predecessors. One of them is the artist Helmut Lang who energized New York in the 90’s and had his first stateside show in his shop space on Greene Street. Marc Jacobs also held a show to inaugurate his Mercer Street store right next to the new Khaite store. Jacob’s location across from the Angelica movie theater on Houston and next to the then new Mercer hotel was the quintessential New York store experience where Winona Ryder, Kate Moss or Cameron Diaz could be found shopping or hanging out in the legendary basement office of store manager Robert Rich. Holstein has now taken over the baton.

The look?

Khaite achieves her Uptown girl meets Lower East Side chick look by playing with lengths. Her coats and dresses are floor sweeping and good for the gala circuit and her jackets and bombers are micro short on the hip.

The details?

A giant zipper always looks good. But to anchor most of her jackets graphically with an exaggerated black leather trim to hold the zipper gave the silhouette a clear and straight look. Those little details turn everyday clothing into cult objects. Probably the biggest strength at Khaite.

Holstein’s recipe?

The designer loves to refer to her design process as preparing a meal with good ingredients. For her this means a Joy Division soundtrack, stellar casting featuring Aymeline Valade, Anna Ewers or Alana Zimmer, a Richard Serra steel installation like show space and store and a heavy focus on black leather and some white tailoring. Nothing is more downtown cool than black and white contrasting.