Things look pretty bright for Lucie and Luke Meier. They just welcomed a baby daughter and Renzo Rosso who has been making a name for himself as tasteful luxury group developer bought the company. With Sander, Marni and Margiela he now owns three fashion forward companies amongst other things. “This is the new way of fashion, no logos but blank surfaces,” he told us backstage. Lucie and Luke now fully own the design codes of Jil Sander and their maxi tailoring, statement earrings and bold knitwear with fringes have become signatures of their tenure. Garments, which last and mean something often made in thick cotton. “To be positive and upbeat is what the moment calls for,” expressed Luke Meier backstage.

What we liked best?

The statement tailoring in the show was strong. From the first suit with giant shoulders on the jacket to the maxi coats with plunging, color contrasted lapels, the mood was about exact cuts balanced with textural surfaces. There is a comfortable mood at Sander now derived from boxy shapes, which flow.

The now factor?

From playing Björk on the soundtrack, bringing back Helena Severin as model, giant loop earrings or young blonde girls with swept back bobs, a mauve show space in futuristic architecture, the mood here was very eclectic but capturing the moment perfectly: whispering optimism.

The nice detail?

The attached collar scarves on many looks in stiff cotton looked extremely good. Plus the “happy to see you” pin distributed with the invites.