The Milan season was the first proper full fashion week since the pandemic with lots of strong shows, debuts, brand introductions and full days. But then came the war in the Ukraine and dampened spirits, making us aware of how lucky we are and think of our friends in the Ukraine. In Achtung’s case the photographer Julie Poly and the designer Anton Belinskiy. Still, the strong season is deciphered here in order of show day.

Diesel

Brand: Diesel

Inspiration: Disruptive, sexy, fluid and fun elements

Some facts: Glenn Martens started his Diesel tenure with a digital show and now he openend the season with a remarkable live show featuring gigantic inflatable models. Yes, all of them were wearing denim. The man behind the setting was Berlin based art director Niklas Bildstein Zaar.

Look pick: The second skin [non] denim

Brand: Fendi

Inspiration: S/S 1986 archive collection by Karl Lagerfeld

Some facts: The person who inspired Kim Jones to explore the Fendi archives was Delfina Delettrez, whom Jones once saw walking into the Roman headquarters dressed in a printed blouse stolen from her mother’s wardrobe.

Look pick: Minimalist utilitarian 2-piece

Fendi

Del Core

Brand: Del Core

Inspiration: Mutation is life

Some facts: A brand launched with the only live-show during the pandemic in February 2021 that keeps surprising with its couture like designs. We were not wrong when we called Daniel Del Core the new German designer to know but also a rising talent from Milan.

Look pick: Couture butterfly

Brand: N21

Inspiration: Spontaneous tailoring

Some facts: Fur can still play a role in current collections if brands do it consciously. Alessandro Dell’Acqua knows it, so he worked with a pair of furs he found at a vintage store to give them a second life. Dell’Acqua transformed them into a signature piece by covering them with a layer of chiffon. The furs were worn by German new faces Electra 3000 and Cosmo Caspers.

Look pick: Second life fur

N21

Roberto Cavalli

Brand: Roberto Cavalli

Inspiration: Feminine self-affirmation

Some facts: It has been a year since Fausto Puglisi took over the Florentine house. Last week he offered a wider spectrum of his own interpretation of sexiness, incorporating new prints such as Queen Elizabeth II’s tartan, but keeping a good collection balance with all-in-black looks.

Look pick: Sexy black belt

Brand: Max Mara

Inspiration: Sophie Taeuber-Arp

Some facts: Ian Griffiths looked into polyvalent Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp for the latest Max Mara collection. An avant-garde minded woman associated with the Dadaism movement whose work was neglected for decades. Griffiths envisioned his models wearing clothes indirectly inspired in Taeuber-Arp’s geometric abstract designs and palette but also in her artistic nights at Cabaret Voltaire in Zurich where she would be frequently seen along her fellows. We wonder which look Sophie and fellow period artist Hannah Höch would have picked.

Look pick: Lady in Red

Max Mara

Prada

Brand: Prada

Inspiration: The history of women, the history of people

Some facts: For their latest co-designed collection, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons went for a more realistic styling combination for today’s woman. As Simons officially stated: “There is a reflection of something you know, a language of Prada. And those moments have helped define our idea of beauty today, which we are now redefining.” There was an attention to detail but also to Kim Kardashian who created a commotion outside the show venue.

Look pick: Metallic collar dress

Brand: Emporio Armani

Inspiration: Glamour

Some facts: With the intention of restoring the full capacity of fashion show venues, Mr. Armani allocated 400 additional seats to the company’s employees in recognition of their work and in gratitude for their commitment during the last two years of pandemic.

Look pick: Armani latex

Emporio Armani

Moschino

Brand: Moschino

Inspiration: Surreal home

Some facts: Jeremy Scott’s new collection for the Italian house started by looking into the 1989 and 1990 archives when Franco Moschino introduced cutlery brooches and hot-and-cold faucet handles as accents in his RTW.

Look pick: Red Door (but even more the astronaut outfit Scott wore at the end of the show)

Brand: Tod’s

Inspiration: Italian heritage

Some facts: Walter Chiapponi is getting stronger and stronger at the head of Tod’s design. He understands sensuality in a traditional Italian way and the right balance between masculinity and femininity. Never compromising luxury.

Look pick: Stevie Nicks 2022

Tod’s

Missoni

Brand: Missoni

Inspiration: Internal strength

Some facts: It was the last collection by creative director Alberto Caliri, a solid all-Missoni colorful DNA affair. Let’s see where the Missonis go next?

Look pick: Best of both worlds (tailoring jacket plus sweatpants)

Brand: Sportmax

Inspiration: Seduction and sensuality

Some facts: Sportmax begins a new style path. The new collection is translated as a sartorial deconstruction of fetishist ideals of the femme fatale. Think Catherine Deneuve in The Hanger or Kim Novak in Vertigo. This narrative was staged in an all-in-pink hallway of doors intended to create a surreal dreamscape, a ritualistic “corridor” of initiation into a new discovery, as the brand explained.

Look pick: Provocative reminiscence

Sportmax

Etro

Brand: Etro

Inspiration: Etro codes remix

Some facts: Veronica Etro had one mission, to change the design perspective of her family brand without losing its identity. “Nothing is as it was: paisleys are blown up to the point of total abstraction, tapestry textures are translated into brilliant monochromes, harlequins are augmented and turned into patches, furs, made of wool, draw soft geometries…”

Look pick: Total black

Brand: Gucci

Inspiration: Magical mirror metaphor

Some facts: Alessandro Michele gave a press conference post show. Here he explained he no longer believes in fashion weeks focused on women’s or men’s only. This is the reason why his show mostly included male models. But the cherry on the cake was the unexpected collaboration with Adidas.

Look pick: Gucci football jersey

Gucci

Versace

Brand: Versace

Inspiration: Sense of mystery

Some facts: Versace shows from its origins have always been all about an energizing casting. For Donatella, today, “girls like Avanti, Anyier and Tilly perfectly represent Versace with a new generation attitude and they champion diversity,” without forgetting runway regulars such as the Hadid siblings.

Look pick: La femme fatale

Brand: Jil Sander

Inspiration: Female confidence

Some facts: This Saturday show felt like a museum visit. Showcased at an elegant cream salon with central classic sculptures, Lucie and Luke Meier’s collection was not different from the venue set: rigorous design and tailoring, craftsmanship and the use of innovative materials.

Look pick: The pilgrim woman

Jil Sander

Dolce & Gabbana

Brand: Dolce & Gabbana

Inspiration: Metaverse

Some facts: Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce’s futurist take on their brand’s DNA was not undermined by their philanthropic actions. In parallel to their F/W show, they supported CSM graduate Sohee Park to create a collection and make her international debut in Milan. It was a stylist close to the design duo who introduced Park’s work to them, knowing both brands have a special love for handmade crafts.

Look pick: Lingerie deconstruction

Brand: Marni

Inspiration: Courage, time and feelings

Some facts: Guests gathered at a cave like space with nature decoration where models converged with the scenario. No seating. “All living under one roof, the Marni roof, sharing the same wardrobe but each one wearing it their own way and mixing with their objects of affection.” At the end all guests and models merged around al fresco brunch.

Look pick: Purity

Marni

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Brand: Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Inspiration: 20’s Berlin culture

Some facts: Lorenzo Serafini traveled in time to Berlin during the Weimar Republic – an era of several major movements in the fine arts – to find inspiration for his F/W collection, exchanging with the works of pioneering gender artists such as Jeanne Mammen, known for her dazzling portraits of LGBT Berlin nightlife.

Look pick: Sensual bohemian

Brand: Bottega Veneta

Inspiration: Past and future

Some facts: Matthieu Blazy, the new creative director of Bottega Veneta, opened his first show with two terrific but super simple looks. A pair of high waisted jeans worn with a tank top on a beautiful Balkan looking beauty and black model with a large back pack pouch thrown over the shoulder. Only the denim is in fact really a printed, supple nubuck. We call it the Margiela gene. We missed the Lee perversion.

Look pick: The opening look

Bottega Veneta

MSGM

Brand: MSGM

Inspiration: Sky and the stars

Some facts: Massimo Giorgetti conceived his new collection as an escapism from everything terrible that is happening right now. This is also the reason why he kept the show small and quiet. He chose the brand’s new HQ for the presentation.

Look pick: 2022 galactic purple

Brand: Ferrari

Inspiration: Cross pollination

Some facts: Rocco Iannone’s second collection for the house but first show in Milan was held at the Pavilion 3 of Fiera Milano City. The models walked down a 180 meter long “racing car” runway.

Look pick: Racing team manager

Ferrari

Dsquared2

Brand: Dsquared2

Inspiration: Bohemian travelers

Some facts: Dean and Dan Caten imagined this collection for the post pandemic era when people are fully out from their homes again, ready to explore the world but carrying an attitude of peace and love. With this same love, the duo welcomed its show guests at their Milanese rooftop restaurant, greeting guest by guest.

Look pick: Multicultural boho

Brand: Giorgio Armani

Inspiration: Armani elegance

Some facts: Mr. Armani chose a small space at home to present his eponymous brand collection. The show took place in silence. The current scenario did not feel right to do otherwise. In his own words: “My decision not to use any music in the show was made as a sign of respect towards the people involved in the unfolding tragedy in Ukraine.”

Look pick: The tux shirt

Giorgio Armani

Cormio

Brand: Cormio

Inspiration: Tyrol and childhood memories

Some facts: This was the first show for Jezabelle Cormio, a graduate from the prestigious Royal Academy of Antwerp who founded her namesake brand Cormio in 2019. Her 100% Made in Italy colorful and playful sustainable knitwear brand is described by its founder as cute, sexy and intellectual.

Look pick: New Tyrolean