Milan S/S 2025 Highlights Part 4

Gucci hits the casual elegance spot

This had to work for Sabato de Sarno who has been working on his Gucci project for one year now. Judging from the mood, the Kering clan is giving him the time he needs and that was a wise choice as he is a clothing designer at his core and not the social-media-friendly creative director he was forced to be. He finally found his own show space at the contemporary art museum Triennale which the company took over for men’s for the first time already. The association with art is credible and over the summer Gucci was part of a great exhibition called “Il Resto di Niente” about the work of architect Aldo Loris Rossi at the Museo Madre in Napoli which was a tribute to the past and present architecture of the city with outstanding photography by German artist Tobias Zielony. Also, a tribute to Italy and proof how deeply De Sarno cares about his roots and hence how much Gucci is an arch-Italian brand at its core in his mind starting with a theme called Ancora and a soundtrack by Mina twelve months ago and the energy of his closing song “Non Voglio Mica La Luna” by Fiordaliso which jazzed up the museum. A collection of what he called “casual grandeur” backstage fired on all cylinders when it comes to Italian fashion. The quality of making clothes with classicism at the base with craftsmanship, beauty of material, color, volume with the big trench coats as stand out.

Gucci S/S 2025

Photography by Tobias Zielony at the exhibition “Il Resto di Niente” at Museo Madre in Napoli

The Tom Ford factor?

There was a section of clingy jersey dresses which didn’t evoke the Studio 54 sex factor of 90’s Gucci but looked channeled through an Italian eye for a sunset cocktail at the Hotel Parco dei Principi in Sorrento. It’s Italian now.

 

Jersey dresses

Good things come to those?

De Sarno reserved the closing looks of the show for his most transgressive pieces.  He brought out roomy and big volume flared jeans over giant trench coats worn with a tank top only. This section really worked, unlike the elevated printed beachwear with hats, and offered a clue of how Gucci can enter a cool and commercial territory.

Big volume flared jeans over giant trench coats worn with a tank top

Elevated printed beachwear with hats