
Let’s face it, Prada is one of the only brands which doesn’t tour the world with museum shows of its archives to increase equity even while the company is an esteemed member of the international museum world with its Fondazione. Miss Prada probably finds it too banal. But the new collection which was a commentary on the over information by algorithm fed into our daily lives via mobile devices was used to create a best-of Prada wardrobe from over the years. The show felt a bit like a trip through the archive brimming with subversive sex of the Belle de Jour kind and the classic Milan bourgeois codes Prada likes to turn on its head. There were cardigans, knee-length prim coats, pleated skirts the way Miss Prada likes, suede jackets, color-block mini dresses and argyle sweaters. There wasn’t a theme in terms of silhouette or shapes but more a hardcore individualization of all the looks. It started with a small shift dress with the shoulder straps exaggeratedly tied on a real Tomboy female model to underline the off-kilter message. Recently, the men’s and women’s runways have informed each other more and more, so the faux leather belts worked into the garments themselves and the superhero trompe l’oeil knitwear were carried over from the June men’s show.

A small shift dress with the shoulder straps tied on the model

Faux leather belts worked into the garments themselves

Trompe l’oeil knitwear
The new trend?
At Prada it is always about subverting archetypes and giving them new use. We loved the knit leggings worn like normal pants and hence belted which were spread throughout the show.

Knit leggings worn like normal pants with belts


The hardware?
Raf Simons has brought along a penchant for rawness as in all the metal shower curtain loops used as embroidery on dresses or a rough cowboy boot with pants firmly stuck in to walk on a dirty club floor.

Metal shower curtain loops


Rough cowboy boot with pants stuck in
How on earth?
For a house known for setting shoe trends, this show was nearly too good to be true. Studded ballet flats, silver hardwared loafers, little bow slingbacks, a return of the winged heels and lots of simple buckled men’s shoes dazzled.

Silver hardwared loafers

Little bow slingbacks

Winged heels

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons at Prada S/S 2025

