Marni under the direction of Francesco Risso is a house where the designer marches to the beat of his own drum. Ever since he joined from Prada in 2016 he has been developing his fashion language of naïveté, stiff cotton fabrics, New-Look volumes and outfits often resembling paper dolls and yes, stripes. Lots of them. Not always easy garments to wear but wholeheartedly about creativity and the intuition of a Zeitgeist sensing designer who has a knack to boil down fashion to its essence: great clothes. There were many couture-like dresses and gestures with giant hand-painted florals on the cottons which was the main ingredient of the show except for some suede jackets in the beginning. Risso put a tremendous amount of research into his favorite fabric sourcing ancient samples and working with state-of-the-art mills to make them relevant for now. Wide A-line skirt dresses were often paired with coats loosely hanging over the models’ shoulders to create a salon-like atmosphere. Plus the strong color blocking in red and black showed Risso‘s hand.
Suede jackets
Wide A-line skirt dresses paired with loosely hanging coats
Red and black color blocking
The new team?
Renzo Rosso has set up OTB to be a family operation where his sons take on more and more executive responsibility. Hence, Risso was given the time to develop his codes, which is a rarity these days. He is now joined by CEO Stefano Rosso who adds another family member element to the brand.
Francesco Risso and Renzo Rosso
The men’s wear?
A growing segment for the brand, Risso scored with a cut-off, shiny black leather jacket worn with regimental white pants and accessorized with a soft yellow shirt finished with a scarf detail.
Cut-off shiny black leather jacket with white pants and a soft yellow shirt
Black leather?
To juxtapose the all-cotton show with another optic, Risso chose tough black leather in the men’s wear and in a beautiful ankle-length leather skirt contrasted with a scarved white blouse and a quirky nurse hat.
Tough black leather in the men’s wear
Ankle-length leather skirt with a scarved white blouse and a nurse hat
Backstage at Marni S/S 2025
