There are favorite archetypes of Italian designers in the vein of Franco Moschino, Gianni Versace or most recently Fausto Puglisi. Unabashed Italian characters with an incredible aura and presence and a palpable lust for life and considerable design skills. Luca Magliano fits that mold, his presence is electrifying and listening to him backstage is one of fashion’s best performances in 2023. He is the most exciting voice to come out of Milan in the past few seasons and while he mixes elements of Margiela and Carol Christian Poell in his developing œuvre, he has found a voice all his own with what he calls a wretched couture. It helped that he showed this collection on a raised runway to fully discern his hands on approach for each look where the styling was focused on using knots to temper headpieces and attaching extra layers around the neck.

Quoting the saint Teresa d’Avila we paraphrase this runway effort as follows: I will run the way of thy commandments, when thou shalt enlarge my heart. Psalm 119:32. Magliano designs with religious fervor and had four chapters for his show. Nocturnal with the heavy use of black lace and its catholic references, utilitarian gear for the modern traveler, day wear to go to work and then some spiritual elements. “We are going through so much at the moment as a company, I wanted to add a mystic element” explained Magliano backstage, “And I am proud to have a company that gives people work.” His honesty is disarming and infectious just like this collection which feels like a personal memory of favorite clothes.

The devil is in the detail?

One of the keys to achieve his look is layering. Shirt over shirt, apron over pant, Magliano opens backs and covers them with lace, he makes multi pocket cargo pants with duct tape, he layers three waist strips on pants and generally lets the garments hang askew on the body for an unseen look.

The casting?