If Valentino owns red and sometimes pink, Bottega Veneta green and Burberry now stands for royal blue, the Dolce & Gabbana duo have bragging rights for black…in combination with white. Their latest men’s wear show was a big wake up call for how the much touted renaissance of tailoring should look like – masculine, elegant, effortless but still new. The Sicilian gent never gets out of the picture here because Domenico and Stefano have rendered new versions of him for decades now. In his latest rebirth he allows for denim to be worn with his floor sweeping fake fur coat and black knee-high boots or he wears a closed neck black silk shirt with high waisted pants as in the opening and some bows.

In their nearly all black show with shades of grey the soundtrack of a classic piano set the mood and all their prior unabashed leanings into Gen Z culture and flirts with TikTok stars were immediately forgotten. This was classic DNA Dolce & Gabbana. Only in the hands of good tailors can a classic caban coat become something vaguely resembling a tuxedo jacket with all the required lapel trimmings and pipings. The entire show was a tailoring tour de force of sometimes eight button double breasted jackets and double closures for visual treats on jackets. Clearly, the designers have now firmly put the past and their China fall out behind as even one of the world’s most famous public figure came backstage and wanted to hang: Jeff Bezos in tight jeans and leather jacket and his partner Lauren Sanchez in a white tuxedo.