This new Prada men’s collection was all about hard work. While it looked rather simple and minimal like the opening look of a two-button, single-breasted suit with slim pants and an exposed collar detail attached over a nude torso it was clear that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons worked very hard here. It was mostly about leaving things out and bringing back a kind of minimalism both designers are known for. Inspired by uniforms – not the ones that support aggression like in the military but hard work on the factory floor – the duo imagined a futuristic factory and executive suite work force collection which was presented to a throbbing techno soundtrack by Simons new favorite DJ Clara 3000.
Opening look at Prada F/W 2023
Executive suite workforce uniforms
Black tailoring and brown suede tunics worn over skinny ski pants made for the backbone. Prada is also still very much at the vanguard of men’s shoes and the new apron front derby with a grandpa zipper will be a surefire hit. Presented in a slightly claustrophobic low ceiling show space, the collection confirmed the harmonious nature of their collaboration. In fact, it cannot be said often enough that Prada is the only big fashion conglomerate with a clear succession plan in place.
Black tailoring
A new Prada derby for F/W 2023
Pillow talk?
Fascinated by the square shape and softness of a pillow, Simons injected the collection with exactly that. All the bomber jackets looked like giant walking pillows and gave away the mysterious invite of the show. A down pillow with its cotton case.
Pillowy bomber jackets
Inspiration?
At first hard to discern, the collection riffed on the colors and details of 1950’s era skiwear. Most of the super skinny black bottoms were in fact ski pants. Looking at their mutual archive, Raf and Miuccia brought back the attached shirt collars from their past and anchored all their looks with them worn over jackets and cardigans on nude torsos. Wabi-sabi execution by an Italian and a Belgian.
Ski pants
Attachable shirt collars
The suit and the tunic?
Suiting has been back at Prada men’s for a while as evidenced by the windows in the Prada shops in Milan and with this show a strong point for a lean two-button, single-breasted silhouette was made. Plus, the show made a strong case for a tight, long tunic worn over pants which could also be seen as a dress adding a modern medieval touch.
Two-button, single-breasted silhouette
Tight long tunics
The new show space?
As anticipated as the show itself, is the AMO conceived space for men’s in January. This time the giant hall had a moving ceiling that was risen to give the clothes a grand scale and then lowered for the finale to focus the gaze on the clothes.
Show space for Prada F/W 2023 with moving ceilings
