It says a lot about a show when industry bible WWD dedicates an entire page the day of on what the show will look like according to industry experts. Really? Alessandro Michele’s tenure at Gucci was so remarkable because it took the brand to new heights, creatively and financially speaking and it ushered in a new era of inclusivity, beauty, poetry and romance in fashion which went perfectly hand in hand with the larger culture shift of the #metoo movement which upended the days of predator and abusive men. Michele’s Gucci was at the opposite end of that hard reality, it sold clothes imbued with dreams. It was soft and full of fantasy. Ok, in the end he ran out of steam and the clothes looked the same even at his last show Twinsburg which was an amazing production but more as an off Broadway than fashion show.
Alessandro Michele’s last show for Gucci S/S 2023 “Twinsburg”
No new chief creator has been named and so a collective of in-house designers had the task to usher in a new era exactly eight years after Michele’s first show. And let’s not forget, it was his first look of a red pussy-bow neck blouse which changed everything. The new team decided to suggest a strong line up of separates which establish a new Gucci wardrobe. Think louche and long denims, elegant and roomy jackets, cool bombers, floor length coats and of course some split open long skirts.
Elongated silhouettes
Slouchy denim
What was very different?
Using a lineup of cool male models and not quirky characters changed the attitude of the collection completely and felt perfectly judged.
Updated casting for Gucci F/W 2023
Grungy Gucci?
It was a lot about styling at this show. Thick socks tucked into Pirate boots which seemed too small on the eye and hence the silhouette or beanie bags used on many looks which had a Kurt Cobain feel enhanced by the experimental hard rock soundtrack played live by Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog.
Heavy styling
Set for the Gucci F/W 2023 presentation
The good news?
This was a successful effort to align Gucci with a more elegant but still cool edge. The tailoring was beautiful, apart from the silly fishing gear looks and open elbow and knees sections. This show will usher in the era of the full legged and floor length 70’s pant in chinos, wools or denim. The silhouette is beautifully elongated and speaks of Gucci’s tailoring ambition another area that Michele’s nerdy men’s wear did not deliver on.
Fishing gear looks
Slit open elbows and knees
A new era of Gucci
