Milan Men’s Fashion Week S/S 2018 Part 1

Our favorite things from the first days of Milan

June 19, 2017

Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2018

Alessandro Sartori is a talented designer and on top of that an ambitious one. He wants nothing less but to be declared the world’s most influential men’s creator and with Gildo Zegna and the company’s resources at his side, he is on the best way to become just that. His second collection for Zegna Couture was sheer beauty and a tour de force of craftsmanship.

Line up Zegna Couture

What stood out?

The washed and faded denim in a roomy mid length coat and jacket that oozed luxe and ease combined with hand painted T-shirts.

Left: Faded lengthy denim coats; Right: Hand painted T-shirts

Sartori signature?

Already at Berluti, Sartori loved to put on oversize pockets on his jackets and coats to create a new utilitarian look. He is still doing it at Zegna Couture in his series of Safarienne jackets with four big pockets.

Left: Utilitarian look with oversized pockets; Right: Oversized silhouettes oozing ease and comfort

Storytelling?

Sartori is also becoming an accomplished showman. A Milanese school courtyard was transformed into an Off-Broadway minimal production stage with one red tree and red gravel, while drummers in the archways above took care of impressive percussion. Sartori connected the dots by making it personal and telling the audience that he spent a lot of time in his youth there sketching and dreaming.

Tangerine backdrop at the Università degli Studi di Milano

King of Hearts and their many personalities

Dolce & Gabbana Men’s S/S 2018

Talk about being busy. Last Wednesday at 7pm the designers, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, decided to put on an extra tailoring show for Friday night at 10pm at their Martini bar courtyard. To juxtapose the Millennial vibe they have been casting, more old school models showed the Sicilian elegance suits. Then the next day at 2pm they put on their Dolce & Gabbana show and wow, what a strong and eclectic spectacle it was.

Left: Graphic playing card prints; Right: East meets West, oriental influence

What we liked the best?

The collection featured the new King of Hearts and their multiple personalities as expressed with a Millennials casting. There were elements of a generation that is constantly traveling between East and West and that is able to define and shape the current multimedia society. Lots of logo mania, new interpretations of pajamas and the best shiny Mafioso suits in colors like green and pink we’ve seen anywhere.