Things are in motion; fashion is not having a moment. It’s taking a pause, a breather. Things are changing. Pitti Uomo 107 started with two shows from Setchu and MM6 Maison Margiela which is lo-fi for their hi-fi Jil Sander, Haider Ackermann or Grace Wales Bonner standards. And Milan has barely any runway shows. Compared to last June a lot of excitement is missing – no Moschino, no JW Anderson, no Gucci, no Fendi, no Martine Rose nor DSquared2 and what the Versace man really looks like is in the distant rear mirror. So, the gear is low now, and we are waiting for acceleration. In this case, new announcements. Who comes in at Versace or Fendi? Will Bottega remain the coolest show, are Lucie and Luke really on the move? We miss their precise Jil Sander men’s shows, the Valentino men’s sophistication. Will Pier Paolo bring it back somewhere else as his men’s was always the cool son to his Haute Couture mother. But even more reason to have a closer look at the ones still standing, Giorgio Armani who just celebrated a spectacular women’s show in the Park Avenue armory in New York last October and has an Emporio and Giorgio Armani men’s show on the schedule. His EA7 line supports the Naples football team which is leading the Seria A. It’s an Armani moment and he is celebrating 50 years in business on top. Also very much standing: Prada by Miuccia and Raf is the big moment of men’s wear now – globally. Yes, this millennium is logging in at a quarter. Time for change which we at ACHTUNG trust in. Because that’s fashion, change on the surface can bring change underneath. The people, the person.