Jil Sander
Late yesterday evening Jil Sander issued a statement that Lucie and Luke Meier would step down so no surprise their show had a somber feel to it. When asked to describe the collection, Luke Meier spoke about trying to bring some clarity into the current times. Or their lives? Regarding somber – black curtains, dim lighting, an emotional soundtrack with lyrics along the lines of “Just be there in the moment…Can I stay a little longer.” But then the way the clothing stood out had a very optimistic feel. Many shiny surfaces dispersed throughout the show were so bright and hit just perfectly by the headlights that the iPhone camera couldn’t deal with the glare. Of course, the tailoring was on point with the Meier’s usual eye for detail. Sometimes jackets worn under a big fur coat or styled with a double-belt-situation cinching the waist just right. The floral ombré fabric on some of the looks was refreshing, especially on the men’s outfits, and added to the optimistic feel of the collection. There was a lot of metallic fringe which made for our favorite looks the way the proportions were applied just right and of course when worn by German model of the moment Penny Ternes added interesting movement to a rather stiff line-up of looks. But then the stiffness is somewhat a signature of their tenure plus a clear communication of codes, streamlined design practices and a big focus on very now but timeless clothing. A farewell done exactly right. What’s next? We keep our fingers crossed, it’s a big house which understands designer fashion better.
Jil Sander F/W 2025
Metallic fringes
Double-belt-situation
Ombré floral fabric
Standout look on Penny Ternes
Lucie and Luke Meier taking their final Jil Sander bow
Fendi
100 years is a very long time. We don ‘t want to start listing things that happened in the last 100 years, but a century is a century and Fendi has stood tall throughout celebrating the occasion last night by pulling out all the stops. Huge set, return to the headquarter after renovations, star studded crowd inter alia Sarah Jessica Parker, big soundtrack. And the clothing? A true Fendi best of. Admittedly a bold move was to present well over a dozen furs taking ownership of the current fur dressing trend all over the world. It is Fendi at the end of the day, with that being said most of them were realized with shearling. Of course, there was also a plethora of leather looks. Some were full on all over buttery with big voluminous sleeves and a juxtaposing tightly cinched waist which made apparent the house’s true talent and historic background: Leather work. But then there were also moments that felt very new for Fendi, like the black flared leather pants paired with a pinkish wool top and worn with a terracotta-colored suede leather jacket, very 70’s but also very now. Favorite look contender, if that wasn’t already taken by the zig-zag leather looks in brown and black that were styled just right, especially when worn with the same boots giving an eye-soothing illusion. The big, knitted beanies with built-in face veils felt a bit forced. To close the show, Silvia Venturini Fendi showed a few lacey see-through dresses with furs being dragged along and sweeping the floor in the one hand and the newest bag(uette) in the other. Ending it in a bath of standing ovations and taking her bow with arms raised, Silvia savoured her moment to shine. Congratulations!
Fendi F/W 2025 and a 100 year celebration
Lots of fur
Great leather looks
Voluminous sleeves
70’s inspired look
Zig-zag leather made for our favorite look
