Milan F/W 2025 Highlights Day 1

The many women of N°21

After a somewhat quiet New York Fashion Week opening the women’s F/W 2025 season and London turning into more of an incubator for small local talents with some strong offerings by designers like Dilara Findikoglu or Stefan Cooke – and of course the grande Daniel Lee at Burberry ending LFW last night and maybe his tenure?  Milan has started off on a rainy Tuesday with missing-a-creative-director Gucci‘s studio-designed collection for Fall 2025 which was exactly that. The current house codes digestibly put into 60 looks and there is no sign of Sabato left, not even the Ancora-Red De Sarno introduced a couple of years ago. Tabula rasa seems to be the credo, understandably. The collection came with a lightheartedness that was missing in seasons past with some really strong tailoring. Who is however still in full force is Penny Ternes, the German model opened the Gucci show and simultaneously the Milan week.

Gucci F/W 2025

Strong tailoring by Gucci’s designers

Hey, Penny Ternes!

N°21

Alessandro Dell’Acqua is a designer who very much understands the Zeitgeist. While his men‘s collection for Fall 2025 had quite a feminine touch with leo prints, light and airy styling and furry elements, this in no way means that he takes the same ”vice versa approach“ when designing for women. Dell’Acqua’s women are women. Bold women, wearing oversized opera coats in black. Playful women, wearing mini dresses so mini they’d fit into a clutch. Women not afraid of color, especially red, as seen in those super structured, heavy knit sweaters and cardigans. Women who know when’s the appropriate time for an all black outfit moment, particularly an LBD moment. Women who also know when to go full on sheer as seen in the closing looks that were kept in very easy to wear pastel tones. Experimental women who prefer an intricacy to their garments as shown in the sequined gowns kept in a christmassy colorway. Dell’Acqua’s use of bows when designing never feels overdone, more whimsical and smartly placed, the same goes for his knack for using leo-print. The floral prints had a bit of a bed-sheet-esque aesthetic to them, but shown on exclusively messy-haired models with Radiohead’s Creep blasting through the Spazio N°21 this collection is designed for women who know a thing or two about dressing well.

Super-structured knit

Sequins at N°21 F/W 2025

Sheer pastels

Mini mini-dresses

Big black coat

Duvet-dressing