All good fashion needs to be a cursor of the times we live in and give a sense of the moment. L’air du temps as the French call it and Zeitgeist for us Germans. On a day when the big Milan shows from Fendi, Roberto Cavalli or Etro were completely free of that important fashion prerequisite and felt like they only exist in their very own bubble attended by an army of their “on brand” dressed influencers and celebrities, there comes Alessandro Dell’Acqua with his N21 collection and delivers the show of the day. It was polished, it had whiffs of British aristo dressing, it showed a sure hand in coloring and was described by Dell’Acqua as anarchic couture backstage. And yes, Haute Couture is having its comeback in Paris and runways all over and the anarchy is just what Dell’Aqcua likes, a little posh punk vibe to offset the elegance. He grounds his women with safe and flat footwear, he makes them pretty by adding bows to the neckline and waist, but it doesn’t feel precious or too sweet but just right and very 2024.
Anarchic couture for N21 F/W 2024
Posh punk to offset overbearing elegance
Lots of bow details seen here on the shoulders
Adjusting the length?
Dell’Acqua likes it oh so short when it comes to skirt length and he feels the moment is right for barely there mini-skirts and shorts. Combining see through black mini dresses with chunky knit cardigans provided a good play with proportions.
Chunky and sheer juxtapositions
Super short skirts
Barely there shorts
Only in the right hands?
His mini dresses with cut outs around the bust line with flat bows to anchor the outfit were standout looks.
Standout looks at Dell’Acqua’s N21 F/W 2024 show
Mini dresses with excellently placed cut outs
The sure colorist?
In a mostly black line up, he added signal red in tweed coats and thick knit baby doll numbers plus turquoise blue cardigans and sweaters. Of course, there is always a bit of leopard print here.
Signal red tweed coat
Turquoise accents
A dash of leopard print
Alessandro Dell’Acqua after presenting his F/W 2024 collection for N21
