Mini trends are beginning to emerge on the runways and interestingly enough it’s motorcycle culture and the idea of speed which was at the heart of the trendsetting Jil Sander collection as well as more predictably so at Ferrari. Corset fashion is popular on the Milan runways as well and collections are either sleek and steeped in classicism as Ferragamo or Tod’s or on the saucier side like Dolce & Gabbana who delivered an Haute version of their black, white, gold and silver body positivity clothes which looked a bit like a lingerie show.

Jil Sander

Gone are the days when Lucie and Luke Meier’s Jil Sander was a subtle affair of elegance. They have decided to toughen up and did so with a motorcycle and speed inspired collection with sleek aerodynamic surfaces like Yves Klein blue leathers as building blocks. It looked like a lot of fabric but the elongated sleek column silhouettes looked strong. Using mostly zippers instead of their quirky oversized buttons added to that harder feeling. There was a new sense of opulence in the finale with floor length and lavishly appliquéd silver florals. Going back to the nineties when they met and started out as designers was their starting point hence Björk was wailing on the soundtrack and LTJ Bukem’s drum and bass delivered the driving finale beats. It was a collection which broke new ground for the duo as they also engaged in more obvious branding – the opening look had a logo down the front placket and the takeaway gift for guests was a motocross style graphic design logo T-Shirt – but was a radical departure to last season’s ode to romantic beauty. This Jil Sander has bid farewell to the codes of its founder and all the better for it.

Ferrari

Rocco Iannone is like a scientist who is looking to discover a groundbreaking formula to solve his design quest of bringing the most recognized brand in the world to life as a fashion collection. In his second year at the helm of the ambitious project he seems to be inching closer. There is a slightly more articulated vision of elevated sportswear to the clothes as in double waisted denim outfits which looked strong. To use a heavy dose of pink and associate the color on its way to becoming red was a clever take on the idea of beauty and speed. Iannone is a master tailor and his padded car spoiler like men’s pants looked cool and fresh.

Ferragamo

Suddenly this is a new big show on the calendar. Taking over an immense hall at the Fiera Milano, Ferragamo brought in the master of fashion ceremonies Etienne Russo to build a mega set which looked like a bombastic party headquarter of a future planet. Maximilian Davis can do sexy which is new to the canon of the house and his ruched mini dresses were standouts. The color red branding exercise feels a bit forced just like the overall controlled line up of the looks where many coats and jackets were just so buttoned up that they seemed boring.

Dolce & Gabbana

It seems this house is back after all its drama. The new campaign with Kim Kardashian looks nothing short of sensational and puts Dolce & Gabbana at the forefront of purveyors of sexy clothes for women of all ages. Kardashian lounging on a couch looks wonderful and it’s not easy for us to write this. So with bodycon and corset fashion trending on all runways, the designers pilfered through their archives and featured sensational corsets, smoking and tailored coats in black, white and gold to underline that they were there first.