Closing Paris Fashion Week with an expert display of what a thought-out fashion show looks like – fusing subcultures as diverse as punk with sports, introducing new categories like footwear and collaborations with Antwerp jeweler Wouters & Hendrix – Meryll Rogge made it clear that she is ready for her moment in the spotlight. The latest Andam Prize winner and newly appointed Marni designer has a lot going on now plus a side project called B.B. Wallace which is all about Shetland wools. Known for her deft use of color and yes, knitwear she made it clear with this show that she wants to add a new register to her name: subtly sexy clothes with shiny short skirts and bustier revealing micro knit tops. Plus, a very assured take on athletic staples like anoraks but done the haute designer way with new cut and proportion. The nicely oversized and laid-back men’s wear had strong moments with shrunken knitwear over well cut pants and flaring pyramid jeans. Rogge made appetite for her Marni debut already.

Outstanding?

The new shoes based on classic boaters but done as knee high sandals or slip in mules were cool and in brown rugged leather a nice juxtaposition to the skin revealing looks. Plus, Rogge must have dispatched a few designers to research black belts to come up with cool versions that added strips and loops to the waistline.